La Société and Relais Plaza

The best thing about La Société, the latest of the Costes brothers' many Parisian restaurants, is the stunning decor by interior designer Christian Liaigre. The worst is that their latest address, in the heart of Saint Germain des Prés, is probably the most costly of all of the Costes, in every sense. If you've done one Costes menu, you've done 'em all, only here you'll pay more. 4 pl Saint Germain des Prés, 6th, 01.53.63.60.60. €60

By comparison, the new three-course €50 prix-fixe menu at the Relais Plaza, a fashion crowd favorite on the Avenue Montaigne for decades, seems like a very good buy. On the basis of a recent meal—crab and avocado cocktail, rack fo lamb with baby vegetables, and a sublime délice de caramel—it's going to be popular. Hotel Plaza Athénée, 25 ave Montaigne, 8th, 01.53.67.64.00.

Prices are per person without wine.

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