Astier

Opened in 1956, Astier has long been a legendary institution on the Paris bistrot scene. Taken over in 2006 by Frédéric Hubig-Schall (who also runs the Café Moderne near the Bourse), Astier has been spruced up but not changed, with its vieux parigot atmosphere and red-checked tablecloths with thick matching napkins. Downstairs is buzzing, crowded elbow-to-elbow with small tables and a busy old-fashioned mirrored service bar, while the upstairs room is quieter and more spacious. Chef Christophe Kestler has kept a roster of old-fashioned bistrot staples including chicken-liver terrine, foie gras, guinea fowl grand-mère, or pork dishes from top cut to trotters (a different one is served each day), but he has also added lighter, more contemporary dishes like a thin tart of sea bream or herb risotto.

The four-course fixed-price menu (which allows several choices per course) includes the very impressive serve-yourself cheese tray piled high with all the chèvre, Camembert, Roquefort, Cantal and other delicious French fromages anyone might ever want. Desserts might include a nectarine soup with wine syrup and honey-almond ice cream, or a traditional baba au rhum with chantilly. And the famed, 400-reference wine list, managed by sommelier Robert Henry (formerly of Le Grand Véfour) maintains its well-deserved reputation for excellence, with a good choice of bottles at around €25.

44 rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud, 11th, Métro: Parmentier. 01.43.57.16.35. Four-course fixed-price menu €35 per person without wine.

Originally published in the November 2009 issue of France Today; updated in December 2011