Eze Bord-de-Mer: Cap Estel

The steamer-trunk travelers of the 19th century knew the Riviera was a delightful late-winter destination, since the steep hills cascading into the sea are punctuated with bright yellow puffs of first-flowering mimosa and the sunny days grow longer. A perfect place to discover the Côte d’Azur during this season is the charming Cap Estel, an intimate boutique hotel on the water’s edge with a spa and an excellent dining room where chef Patrick Raingeard has just taken over. Raingeard formerly cooked at the Port Palace in Monaco, and before that at Ledoyen and L’Arpège in Paris, experiences reflected in his impeccable classic French cooking enlivened by the occasional well-reasoned creative touch. One recent starter would have pleased the Russian aristocracy that used to haunt these shores—scallop carpaccio with pickled beets, mandarin orange juice and caviar cream.There was also a light consommé with ravioli stuffed with langoustines, ricotta and chorizo; lamb brandade with oriental spices; and an exquisite lobster braised in Sauternes with white beans, chanterelles and a wild arugula emulsion—one of the best dishes I’ve eaten in a long time. Looking out over the Mediterranean, we finished up with pears poached with Espelette pepper and caramel biscuits filled with freshly made ice cream, and the magic of the Riviera never seemed more evident, or appetizing.

1312 ave Raymond-Poincaré, Eze Bord-de-Mer, 04.93.76.29.29. Lunch menu €39; à la carte €90

Prices are approximate, per person without wine.

Originally published in the February 2012 issue of France Today

Alexander Lobrano’s book Hungry for Paris is published by Random House. www.hungryforparis.com. Find Hungry for Paris and more in the France Today Bookstore.