Lyon: 126

It takes a lot to stand out from the crowd in a city that’s as gastronomically blessed as Lyon, so the considerable local buzz about 126, young chef Mathieu Rostaing-Tayard’s great-looking new bistro, had me intrigued even before I had my first meal. Once I tried it, I was immediately struck by the intense sincerity of dishes like artichoke-and-arugula risotto, roasted free-range chicken with hazelnut-accented celery-root purée, and walnut-and-caramel financiers for dessert. Rostaing-Tayard may have done stints with Pierre Gagnaire in London, Eric Briffard in Paris, and Nicolas Le Bec in Lyon, but a certain winsome desire to please is very much his signature and also the reason I can’t wait to get back to his cozy, chocolate-brown dining room—the vibe is hip but relaxed, and there’s some great modern art on the walls.

126 rue de Sèze, Lyon, 04.78.52.74.34. Lunch menus €16-€20, dinner menus €28-€35. Prices are per person without wine.

Originally published in the September 2009 issue of France Today

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