Le Comptoir du Petit Marguery

Le Petit Marguery has reigned for many years as one of the best traditional bistrots in Paris, so I was immediately curious when I heard it had a new, less expensive annex. Arriving on a rainy Sunday night at Le Comptoir du Petit Marguery, a snug little spot with factory lamps, exposed brick walls and wooden tables, I found a warm welcome, and a saucer of sliced saucisson and good bread immediately appeared. The menu was a pleasant surprise, with many appealing dishes at extremely reasonable prices—starters are €6, main courses €14. If the size of my Breton artichoke and mesclun (young field greens) salad with a slice of foie gras was modest, it was also delicious, and so was the white asparagus vinaigrette. Main courses were copious, including luscious lamb shoulder baked in a slow oven for seven hours and a steamed sturgeon filet served with seasonal vegetables. Floating island for dessert was an old-fashioned treat, and a 50-centiliter carafe of Irancy was moderately priced at €15. All told, it’s an excellent address for a low-key, low-budget and very satisfying meal.

9 blvd de Port Royal, 13th, 01.42.17.43.43, Métro: Les Gobelins. €25 per person without wine

Originally published in the July/August 2010 issue of France Today

Alexander Lobrano’s book Hungry for Paris is published by Random House. Find Hungry for Paris and more in our bookstore.

See our complete restaurant guide

View Le Comptoir du Petit Marguery in a Larger Map