Metz: Le Magasin aux Vivres

Occupying an imposing old stone warehouse once used to store provisions for the former French military garrison—now converted into the luxury hotel La Citadelle—Le Magasin aux Vivres is an ideal venue after a visit to the stunning new Centre Pompidou, the annex to the famed Paris museum that has put this delightful capital city of Lorraine on the modern art map (see related articles). This sleek dining room, decorated with modern art, won its Michelin star in 2006, and Christophe Dufossé is a lively, witty chef, as seen in a starter like his deconstructed quiche Lorraine, a composition that includes a crispy wand of pâte sablée, several bacon-mousse bonbons, and cheese-and-egg custard, with a few poached langoustines to lighten things up. He also does a delicious riff on another regional favorite, roast suckling pig, and, in a more classical vein, his grilled scallops with Moselle truffles and risotto are superb. Service is excellent, and the charming sommelier offers his vast knowledge of eastern French wines—let him surprise you with something from the Moselle vineyards.

5 ave Ney, Metz, 03.87.17.17.17. Prix fixe lunch menu €35, à la carte €70. Prices are per person without wine.

Originally published in the May 2010 issue of France Today

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