Marcel

You might be fooled by its old-fashioned Gallic name and its neo-bistrot decor, but Marcel is really a Franco-Indian fusion restaurant. Opened two years ago on the left bank of the Canal Saint Martin, amid the trendy cafés and boutiques, it can be spotted from afar thanks to the big industrial glass windows of its facade. Inside, there’s no faux Indian kitsch to be found, just a cool, classy contemporary interior with wood paneling, colonial-style tables, leather club chairs, oriental rugs and a big black-and-white bar. The subdued lighting adds a romantic touch, and it’s usually packed with the bobos who populate the neighborhood.

The food is definitely less authentic than the traditional Indian fare found in the small canteens clustered around the nearby Gare du Nord, but there’s a fine selection of fusion cuisine, mixing classics—curries, tandoori or massala chicken, Punjabi lamb—with such quirky, innovative dishes as an Indian burger wrapped in a naan. You might sometimes wish for a heavier hand with the spices, but even the milder sauces are still tasty, especially the one that accompanies the butter chicken. Kudos to the desserts, too, notably the kheer (a rice pudding flavored with cardamom) and the kulfi (a dairy dessert served with almonds and mango). The tab is quite reasonable for such a sophisticated spot, and for diners in the front, it includes the pleasure of contemplating the view of the canal from the comfort of the leather club chairs.

90 quai de Jemmapes, 10th, Métro: Jacques Bonsergent. 01.42.03.57.20. €25. Wines start at €24.

Prices are approximate, per person without wine.

Originally published in the January 2013 issue of France Today