Perfect Charm

In the lush Riviera backcountry between Grasse and Vence, the tiny medieval village Le Barsur- Loup sits perched above deep gorges and hillside groves of bigaradiers, or bitter orange trees. At the top of the winding main street, the Hostellerie du Château is exactly the kind of perfect country auberge travelers hope to find in the peaceful arrière-pays.

The castle, once owned by the Counts of Grasse, was taken over in 2010 by Burgundian Didier Sangoy— sommelier extraordinaire—and his sister, Sophie, the gracious maîtresse de maison. They have gradually renovated the château and its five charming Provençalstyle rooms upstairs. With young chef Nicolas Rondelli, the restaurant Le Bigaradier won its first Michelin star last year, and is now drawing an international crowd. On the recent winter evening when we arrived to dine, we found a roaring fire in the fireplace and through the windows a sweeping view of the countryside and snow-dusted palm trees.

Dinner began with a delicious array of amuse-bouches—tapenade, red peppers, creamy celery soup with a quail’s egg—before the first course of rabbit pâté with foie gras. Finding it nearly impossible to choose among the main courses, we shared the tender roasted scallops with truffles, served with butternut squash and chestnuts confites, and an outstanding blue lobster with curry, honeyed pineapple and zucchini. For dessert we shared a house specialty artfully whipped up by pastry chef Stéphane Corolleur: a featherlight tangerine soufflé filled with citrus sorbet and unctuous white chocolate.

The impressive choice of wines includes rare vintages and local wine from the monastery on Saint Honorat, one of the Lérins islands off the coast near Cannes. As soon as the weather warms, we’ll be back to the Hostellerie for dinner on the breezy, romantic dining terrace, and for dessert we’ll order the summery lemon soufflé, filled with mint, cilantro and warm salted caramel-lemon sauce.

6 pl Françis Paulet

Le Bar-sur- Loup

04.93.42.41.10

www.lhostellerieduchateau.com

 

 

Originally published in the March 2013 issue of France Today.

Fixed price menus: lunch €29, dinner €58–€80, tasting menu €95. Wines start at €25

 

Prices are approximate, per person without wine.