L’Espadon

L’Espadon, the vie-en-rose two-star restaurant of the Hôtel Ritz, has introduced a three-course €70 lunch menu that offers an excellent way to discover the delicious and inventive cooking of chef Michel Roth served in one of the prettiest dining rooms in Paris.

My feast started with a giant ravioli stuffed with artichokes and arugula, garnished with baby clams and fine shavings of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. Next came an impeccable filet of monkfish with black olives, zucchini and pickled lemon, followed by a stunningly good dessert of Tatin-style roasted apple with luscious caramel ice cream. They’re pouring terrific wines by the glass at L’Espadon these days, too, and the service is as courtly and charming as it should be in a palatial Parisian hotel. It’s not cheap, but it’s an extremely good buy.

15 place Vendôme, 1st, 01.43.16.30.80. €70 per person without wine

Originally published in the December 2009 issue of France Today

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