Cannes: Mon Rêve de Gosse

The charmingly named Mon Rêve de Gosse (“my dream as a kid”), near the Forville covered market in Cannes, is a good example of the latest crop of brilliant new French bistrots. Young chef Ludovic Ordas worked at the luxury Hôtel Martinez before opening his own new bistrot, and that exigent technical training allows his short, deceptively simple menu to sing. Ordas changes his carte regularly, but when I stopped by for lunch recently with a friend who is the general manager of one of the grand hotels on La Croisette, there were delicious starters of homemade country terrine, served with shallot and balsamic-vinegar jam, and a very original red-beet velouté with an emulsion of fresh goat cheese, garnished with Corsican coppa charcuterie and baby spinach leaves. Main courses were excellent, too, including a terrific roast lamb with mushrooms and pickled lemon, and a perfectly cooked pavé de boeuf with a delicious “millefeuille” of socca (chickpea-flour crêpes) stuffed with zucchini.

11 rue Louis Blanc, Cannes, 04.93.39.68.08. A la carte: lunch €20, dinner €40 per person, without wine

Originally published in the November 2010 issue of France Today

View Larger Map

Alexander Lobrano’s book Hungry for Paris is published by Random House. Find Hungry for Paris and more in our bookstore.

For all our restaurant reviews see here.