Secret Corners

Franck et Fils

Imagine Galeries Lafayette without the crowds, Bon Marché without the attitude, Colette without the noise and you’ve got Franck et Fils. One of Paris’s best kept secrets, this little gem of a department store is also one of the city’s oldest. When Emma Franck first opened her mercerie, or notions shop, in 1897, her selection of beautiful fabrics, elegant ribbons and original hats—and her one-day sales, very innovative for the time—made it a go-to spot for elegant Parisiennes. The little boutique quickly grew to become one of the first department stores solely dedicated to women. After World War I, Madame Franck moved to the larger premises still in use today. The elegant building is small enough to peruse in an hour or two, and the sweeping central staircase, plush dove-colored carpets and choice selection of designer goods, along with exclusive French labels for things like cashmere and gloves and a smashing jewelry collection, make it a perfect spot for a leisurely afternoon’s shopping. A lovely tearoom serves pastry delights from La Grande Epicerie in the big Bon Marché department store on the Left Bank (Franck et Fils is now owned by the Bon Marché Group). While there is not the sheer quantity found in other department stores, in fact a large part of the appeal is that the selection has been astutely narrowed down. The salespeople actually seem eager to help, and the store is still known for its limited sales outside of the usual sale periods. 80 rue de Passy, 16th, 01.44.14.38.00. website

Natural elegance

The upscale shops along rue du Pont Louis-Philippe—one of the thoroughfares connecting the Ile Saint Louis and the Marais—fall into three categories: original women’s clothing, high-end stationers and some of the more interesting jewelry to be found in the Marais, including the new Iki Galerie, the latest and most unusual shop on the two-block lineup. Owner Colette Gohel has represented artisanal jewelry and textile designers for 20 years, first in Rennes and since last November in Paris. Her new light-filled space offers an ideal venue for the 20 or so independent jewelry makers represented here.

The Japanese word iki conveys a notion of innate sophistication combined with a touch of audacity or daring, says Gohel, who describes her jewelry as having a “natural elegance” imbued with the graceful forms found in nature. Marie Charpentier’s sculpted silver bracelets and necklaces resemble undersea corals with smooth pearlescent centers. Lorna Balteanu’s intricate necklaces of macramé silk cord are laced with tiny pearls, and Armel Barroud’s whimsical Calderesque fish earrings and double tiger-head necklace are shaped in gold, red and silver wire. Gohel also stresses the jewelry’s approachability—all of the pieces are one-of-a-kind or made in very limited editions, but their artiness is not assertive and they can easily be worn every day. For a final flourish, Iki also carries a small selection of highly original silk and cashmere scarves. 18 rue du Pont Louis-Philippe, 4th, 01.44.61.44.27. website

Pampered pets

The first and only department store in Paris devoted to cats and dogs, Moustaches is brimming with items hand-picked for quality and originality. The store is divided into sections that reflect every aspect of a pampered pet’s life: play, taking a walk, dressing up, hygiene, snack time and “repose”. The departments have clever titles, too, like Sur Mon 31—a French expression for putting on the dog. A wall full of collars, harnesses and leashes includes everything from sturdy leather models in candy-colored or metallic-finish leather to over-the-top rhinestone numbers that would do Hollywood poodles proud. Parisian pets are patently no less style-conscious than their owners: an urbane Burberry-esque plaid overcoat, comfy velour “jogging” suits and a sleek leather bomber jacket seem to be essentials for the well-appointed canine. Whether your pet prefers to gnaw on a pig’s ear or stalk a bunch of pheasant feathers, there are scores of provocative toys, and a cat carrier in mauve velvet with silver piping wouldn’t be out of place in the court of Cleopatra. 32 rue des Archives, 4th, 01.42.71.05.21. website

Originally published in the January 2012 issue of France Today