L’Ogre

In a wonderful but too-rare instance of quality cooking trumping industrialized catering, this pleasant new bistrot facing the Maison de Radio France, home to most French government-sponsored radio stations, formerly housed a mediocre chain restaurant. Now, a friendly trio of young owners has given the place a new name, L’Ogre--possibly in honor of a caricature Bacchus frolicking at a gargantuan feast on the wall–and made a slight feint at a New York loft look, with suspended black factory lamps and visible heating ducts. But you’ll have no doubt you’re in Paris if you’ve snagged a window table looking west, since it offers a terrific view of the Eiffel Tower. The daily bill of fare, written on a big wall-mounted blackboard, couldn’t be more French either. On a recent visit, it included delicious roast marrow bones, coddled eggs with foie gras, and sautéed wild mushrooms as starters, followed by a run of dishes to make a carnivore growl. (There is always at least a fish or two on offer as well.) I had previously tried the terrific veal chop for two, so this time I opted for an excellent steak tartare with freshly made frites, and also sampled a taste of my friend’s boudin noir (blood pudding). A terrific wine list, well-drilled service, and the good atmosphere generated by a clientele of stylish Parisian professionals letting their hair down add to the pleasure of a meal here, too.

1 ave de Versailles, 16th, 01.45.27.93.40. €35 per person without wine

Originally published in the May 2010 issue of France Today

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