Cannes for the Cognoscenti

La Taverne de LucullusThe café where all the Cannois go, behind the marché Forville, run by René and Coco Meyer. Great place for the apéritif served with small plates of kemia (or tapas), grilled sardines and beignets de fleurs de courgettes (fried zucchini flowers). 4 place du Marché Forville, 04.93.39.32.74

Le Pastis It looks like a tired old Parisian bistrot but it’s one of Cannes’good addresses, a mix of nostalgia and hype. Good breakfast or lunch. 28 rue du Commandant André, 04.92.98.95 40

Le P’tit Zinc Local artists gathered at this tiny bistrot when it first opened in 1929. Today, locals and étrangers mingle at the bar or the lovely terrace. Run by a mother-daughter team serving the best apéritifs in the city with free tapas. 85 rue Meynadier, 04.93.39.38.32.

O’Tchan Cannes’s only “water bar” and a great place for tea, especially their cold spice tea. You can also have lunch there. 4 rue Felix-Faure, 04.93.39.16 37.

Volupté Great tea salon, perfect for a delicious salad with one of the 130 teas on offer. 41 rue Hoche, 04.93.38.20 41.

Vilfeu Where all the Cannois congregate at the end of the day for the best ice cream in town. It might be crowded during the festival, but it’s worth the wait for one of their 150 natural flavors. 19 rue des Etats-Unis, 04.93.39.26.87

L’Écrin A new beach bar at the end of the Croisette, right behind the yachts of Port Canto. You can just have a drink or a plat for €20. Port Pierre Canto, 04.93.43.43.33.

Maëma This beach spot feels like Ibiza on the Riviera. Lounge music as you eat. Apéritifs and cocktails. Open until midnight. Between Boulevard Jean-Hibert and N98, 04.93.38.50.36