Who Wears the Trousers? The Fight for Women’s Fashion Freedom in France 

The right to wear ‘le pantalon’ came at the end of a long and arduous road but one that brought to light a wider fight for equality in France. 

For centuries, the phrase “who wears the trousers?” has been shorthand for who has authority, control, and dominance in a relationship. 

Trousers = Men. Men = Power. 

Skirt = Women. Women = Weak. 

But what if trousers were off-limits to half of the population?  

Until January 31, 2013, a law still technically prohibited women from wearing trousers in Paris, an archaic decree that had stood since 1799. Though rarely enforced in modern times, its long-standing existence served as a stark reminder of the historical constraints placed on women’s freedoms—even when it came to something as seemingly simple as clothing. From acts of rebellion by 19th-century pioneers to Coco Chanel’s fashion revolution and modern political power dressing, trousers have long been more than just a garment; they have been a battleground for gender equality. 

Trousers in the medieval ages

For centuries, trousers have been associated with power, warfare, and masculinity. In medieval France, they were a fundamental part of a knight’s armour, offering mobility and protection in battle. By the 14th century, trousers had become exclusively male attire, reinforcing societal ideas that equated strength and authority with men. Women, by contrast, were expected to wear skirts and dresses, in keeping with rigid gender norms. 

In France, this division was not just cultural—it was legally enforced. Following the upheaval of the French Revolution in 1789, the so-called sans-culottes—working-class revolutionaries—adopted long trousers (pantalons) as a symbol of their defiance against the aristocracy, who traditionally wore knee-breeches (culottes). Yet, while trousers became a mark of political rebellion for men, they remained forbidden for women.

The 1799 decree: policing women’s attire

In the wake of the French Revolution, a time when liberty, equality, and fraternity were purportedly championed, the French government nonetheless sought to control women’s appearance. In 1800, a law was enacted requiring women to obtain police permission to “dress as men.” Some exceptions were made—such as for medical reasons or for activities like horse riding or cycling—but the fundamental restriction remained in place for over two centuries. 

The law was more than an antiquated relic. It reflected deep-seated fears about gender roles, reinforced by the state’s desire to control women’s movements—both physically and socially. The painter Rosa Bonheur, for instance, had to obtain special permission to wear trousers while sketching at horse fairs. Similarly, the novelist George Sand (Amantine Lucile Aurore Dupin) scandalised Parisian society by wearing trousers without permission, making a deliberate statement about women’s rights and autonomy. 

Trousered rebellion: the Bloomer movement & beyond

By the mid-19th century, fashion reform movements advocating for practical clothing had started to bloom abroad, and French women, inspired by these shifts, slowly began adopting trousers in certain settings. The fight for women’s right to wear trousers was part of a broader struggle against restrictive clothing that symbolised gender oppression. In the mid-19th century, the American activist Amelia Bloomer advocated for a more practical alternative to cumbersome dresses, introducing “bloomers”—a bifurcated garment that offered greater mobility. Though initially ridiculed, this movement laid the groundwork for later reforms. The Rational Dress Society, founded in London in 1881, further challenged the suffocating norms of Victorian fashion, promoting clothing that allowed women to move freely. 

Cycling, in particular, played a major role in normalising trousers for women. By the late 19th century, the practicality of bloomers for female cyclists was undeniable, and the sporting world became an arena where women’s attire slowly evolved. French women, inspired by this shift, began adopting trousers for athletic purposes, though broader social acceptance remained elusive. By the early 20th century, the influence of British and American dress reform movements began to bloom in France, with fashion-forward women in Paris gradually embracing trousered looks. 

The World Wars and the normalisation of women in trousers

The two World Wars played a pivotal role in transforming women’s fashion. With men away at the front, women took on jobs in factories, transport, and agriculture—roles that required practical clothing. Skirts and dresses proved hazardous in industrial settings, leading many women to adopt trousers out of necessity. By the end of World War I, trousers were no longer just a rebellious statement but a practical garment for working women. 

French women, like their British and American counterparts, found themselves donning trousers for the war effort. The image of women in workwear, including overalls and utility trousers, became emblematic of resilience and strength. Although many returned to skirts after the wars, the sight of women in trousers had become increasingly familiar. By the time World War II ended, women’s trousers had secured a lasting place in everyday fashion, paving the way for their widespread acceptance in the decades that followed. 

French icons and the fashion revolution

While trousers became a necessity during World War I, when women took on jobs traditionally held by men, it was Coco Chanel who transformed them into a symbol of fashion and empowerment. Chanel, known for her defiance of societal norms, took inspiration from menswear, popularising wide-legged “beach pyjamas” and elegantly tailored trousers in the 1920s. What was once seen as scandalous quickly became a statement of sophistication and independence. Chanel’s legacy in breaking sartorial boundaries continues to influence fashion today, proving that trousers could be both practical and glamorous. 

Brigitte Bardot, the ultimate symbol of French chic, helped popularise trousers for women in the 1950s and 1960s, sporting capri pants and high-waisted jeans that became synonymous with effortless French style. Meanwhile, Yves Saint Laurent’s 1966 introduction of “Le Smoking”—a tailored tuxedo for women—cemented trousers as a bold and glamorous choice, forever changing the landscape of women’s fashion in France and beyond. 

Politics and power dressing

Trousers have since become a staple of women’s wardrobes, but their symbolism as a marker of gender equality persists. In the political realm, French women have long navigated the delicate balance between authority and femininity through their clothing choices. Fashion writer Marc Beaugé notes that female politicians often resort to trouser-and-jacket combinations to avoid sexist scrutiny, though this also risks rendering them “invisible.” While power dressing has become a tool for commanding respect, it also exposes the enduring biases in how women in positions of power are perceived. 

Yet, gender equality in fashion remains incomplete. While women in trousers are now the norm, men in skirts or dresses still face social stigma. As Ian McEwan wrote in The Cement Garden, “Girls can wear jeans and cut their hair short… because it’s okay to be a boy. But for a boy to look like a girl is degrading… because secretly you believe that being a girl is degrading.”  

This quote underscores the persistent patriarchal mindset that equates masculinity with power and femininity with weakness.

The future: beyond gendered clothing

The ultimate goal is not just for women to be able to wear trousers without question, but for clothing itself to be free of gendered expectations. True gender equality will be reached when men in dresses are given the same respect as women in suits. In a truly progressive society, politicians and leaders should feel just as comfortable donning a flowing floral gown as a structured trouser suit. 

We owe much to the pioneers who challenged conventions, from George Sand to Coco Chanel, and beyond. Their battles paved the way for greater sartorial freedom. But the fight is not over. Until skirts and dresses on men are as unremarkable as trousers on women, the question of “who wears the trousers?” will remain a relevant—and revealing—one.