Restaurant Reviews: Marc Veyrat- La Maison des Bois

 
Restaurant Reviews: Marc Veyrat- La Maison des Bois

After a disastrous fire in 2015 destroyed the eco-lodge he’d lovingly built in the tiny Savoyard hamlet of Manigod, chef Marc Veyrat, 67, painstakingly rebuilt the auberge on the hillside above the village where he grew up, and made it even better than it was before. An obvious winter destination when the surrounding slopes are covered with snow, it’s also a delightful place for a warm-weather getaway, since the surrounding forests and fields are magnificent places to walk. The days are warm and the nights are cool; and Veyrat’s almost all-organic tasting menus are superb.

“My restaurant is a display of le bon sens paysan (good old-fashioned common sense). When I was growing up we lived with our animals and almost everything we ate came from our farm. Today, they call this locavorism, but here in the mountains, we’ve been living this way for centuries,” the black-hatted chef said with a grin when he stopped by our table at a recent dinner.

Marc Veyrat’s “Avalanche des desserts”

If every one of our 15 dishes was superb, the ones that were most memorable were also the most delicately flavoured, including trout from Lake Geneva cooked in pine-tree bark and served with beurre blanc, an ethereal expression of Alpine scents, and pigeon breast baked in clay then sliced tableside and served with a peppery, emerald-green wild watercress sauce. A vegetarian version of the tasting menu is available.

Chemin Rural de Manigod au Col de la Croix Fry, 74230 Manigold. Tel: +33 (0)4 50 60 00 00. Tasting menus €295, €395, no à la carte. Website: www.marcveyrat.fr

From France Today magazine

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Alexander Lobrano grew up in Connecticut, and lived in Boston, New York and London before moving to Paris, his home today, in 1986. He was European Correspondent for Gourmet magazine from 1999 until its closing, and has written about food and travel for Saveur, Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, the New York Times, Wall Street Journal, Guardian, Travel & Leisure, Departures, Conde Nast Traveler, and many other publications in the United States and the United Kingdom. He is the author of HUNGRY FOR PARIS, 2nd Edition (Random House, 4/2014), HUNGRY FOR FRANCE (Rizzoli, 4/2014), and MY PLACE AT THE TABLE, newly published in June 2021.