Zinc: Restaurant in Opéra Garnier

The notable lack of reasonably priced, quality restaurants around the Opéra Garnier makes this new brasserie opened by chef Frédéric Vardon doubly welcome. Following its namesake in the Paris suburb of Gennevilliers and the Zinc des Neiges in alpine Courchevel, this is the third Zinc for Vardon, who also just won a Michelin star for his Parisian rooftop restaurant Le 39V. The smart chef isn’t looking to reinvent the wheel here; rather he understands that sometimes diners just want a solidly good, relaxed meal in a quiet and pleasant setting, enjoying the simple pleasures of traditional French dishes like marinated salmon, steak tartare or roast chicken.

8 rue de Hanovre, 2nd, 01.42.65.58.95.

Lunch menus €23–€28, à la carte €40.

Prices are approximate, per person without wine.

Originally published in the May 2012 issue of France Today

Alexander Lobrano’s book Hungry for Paris is published by Random House. www.hungryforparis.com Find Hungry for Paris and more in the France Today Bookstore.