Nîmes: a rich culinary heritage

Nîmes is a city steeped in history and culture, nicknamed ‘the French Rome’ for its magnificent Roman amphitheatre and other ancient ruins. But this handsome Occitan city is also an ideal place for gastronomes interested in what this corner of France, from the Mediterranean coast to the Cévennes mountains, has to offer. 

Iconic dishes  

At the heart of Nîmes’ culinary identity is the brandade de Nîmes. This traditional dish features salt cod poached in milk and then emulsified with olive oil to create a smooth, flavour-rich purée. Served hot or cold, it’s sometimes given an extra touch of luxury with shavings of black truffles from Uzès. Another local favourite is the petit pâté nîmois, a small pastry filled with a mixture of veal and pork. For those with a sweet tooth, Nîmes offers the croquant Villaret, a crisp, chip-shaped biscuit made with almonds and hazelnuts. 

The bounty of the land 

Nîmes is surrounded by rich terroirs, producing delights such as the Picholine olive, known for its juicy, firm flesh. Harvested green, these olives are also pressed to produce huile d’olive de Nîmes, a PDO olive oil characterised by its intense aromas and flavours of green vegetables, garrigue and red fruits. Then there’s tapenade, an umami-rich paste made from green or black olives crushed with anchovies and capers, typically spread on a fresh hunk of bread. Another speciality, anchoïade, combines anchovies with olive oil and garlic, and is a great accompaniment to raw vegetables or bread.  

From surf to turf 

Nîmes’ cuisine is enriched by its access to both coastal and inland ingredients. The taureau de Camargue (Camargue bull) provides tasty meat used in traditional dishes like gardianne de taureau, a hearty stew where the meat is marinated in local Costières de Nîmes wine. This dish is a staple at village festivals and gatherings, often served with PGI riz de Camargue. From the nearby Cévennes, Nîmes sources traditional charcuterie and the renowned Pélardons – small, unpasteurised goat cheeses, often drizzled with local olive oil or chestnut flower honey. 

Brandade de Nîmes © Shutterstock 

Wine and water 

The vineyards surrounding Nîmes, particularly the Costières de Nîmes appellation, produce a variety of esteemed wines. Spanning approximately 12,000 hectares from the city to the Rhône Valley, these vineyards yield red, rosé, and white wines that have gained recognition on international wine lists. Nearby appellations include Clairette de Bellegarde and Côtes du Rhône. And then there’s the world-famous Perrier mineral water, which comes from Vergèze, just a few miles from Nîmes. 

Three culinary experiences not to miss in Nîmes 

Restaurant Rouge 

Helmed by chef Georgiana Viou, this establishment blends Mediterranean terroir with Beninese culinary traditions.  

Duende 

Inspired by the art of bullfighting and flamenco, this Michelin two-star restaurant under the guidance of renowned chef Pierre Gagnaire offers a menu that intertwines local specialities with innovative culinary techniques.  

Restaurant Skab 

Located near the historic Arènes de Nîmes, Michelin-starred chef Damien Sanchez presents dishes that fuse the traditional with the modern while emphasising seasonal freshness. 

Lead photo credit : Shutterstock