5 Things to Do in Paris This Fall

Eat and Be Merry. What will be the hottest restaurant of la rentrée? Such is the question pondered by the city’s restaurant-obsessed denizens. Paris By Mouth—the go-to site for insider food news—has a comprehensive listing of August reviews, and LiLi, the Cantonese restaurant at the new Peninsula Hotel, is getting some love from top Paris restaurant critics. In other news from the world of haute gastronomie, chef Yannick Alléno has taken over at the Michelin three-starred Ledoyen, and Alain Ducasse is back at the Plaza Athénée after its closure for the hotel’s expansion and makeover.

Le Train Bleu, the historic brasserie at the Gare de Lyon, will reopen on September 12 after a renovation project. We are also excited about the new 1st arrondissement salon de thé from celebrated pâtissier Sébastien Gaudard.

Sunday on the Seine. Spend a day navigating the river to discover the old haunts of the Impressionists and the famous guingettes of yesteryear. A full-day cruise passes islands and Argenteuill’s plain, stopping for lunch at La Fournaise, where many 19th century artists (like Manet and Renoir) used to hang out. For more information, visit www.canauxrama.com

A Castle by Candlelight. Only 35 miles southeast of Paris, the Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte is a 17th century architectural masterpiece, offering a fairytale experience for visitors. Until October 4, the chateau offers visits by candelight every Saturday night. More than 2000 candles light up the castle and garden grounds. And at 10:50 pm, there is a spectacular fireworks display.

Fashion and Film. The Palais Galliera is currently showing a fabulous exhibition called Les Années 50, La Mode en France. As part of the show, the museum has partnered with Le Grand Action cinéma to host a Friday series of classic film screenings. For more information, see our article.

Rendez-vous with Picasso. At long last, the Picasso Museum will reopen in Paris on October 25, the artist’s birthday. Originally slated to last two years, the massive expansion project lasted more than five years and was mired in difficulty (and controversy, as the museum’s president was fired in May). Housed in a 17th century hôtel particulier in the Marais district, the museum boasts the world’s largest collection of Picasso works. The new facility will have double its exhibition space. The Musée Picasso originally closed in 2009, so its fall opening is highly anticipated.