Paris Restaurant Reviews: Le Chardenoux by Chef Cyril Lignac

Paris Restaurant Reviews: Le Chardenoux by Chef Cyril Lignac

When chef Cyril Lignac acquired one of the loveliest old bistros in Paris several years ago, he freshened it up with an appealing menu of traditional and contemporary dishes. Now he’s completely rebooted it as a mostly seafood restaurant with a modish menu and new décor by trendy London-based interior architect Martin Brudnizki. Brudnizki added ribbed red velvet banquettes, a harlequin floor and a busy mural of tree branches to a ceiling framed by original Belle-Époque mouldings.

The new look was clearly designed to reposition this table as an address for a younger, style-conscious set, and it seems to have accomplished its desired effect. Though I couldn’t help but miss the old Chardenoux, long a personal favourite, the new menu is very appealing, especially for seafood lovers.

Seafood platter at Le Chardenoux.

Start with organic prawns with chipotle mayonnaise, oysters with grilled sausages, or tuna tartare with avocado, ponzu and wasabi, and then try the salmon in Thai bouillon, langoustine-filled ravioli, or scallops with Jerusalem artichokes and black truffles. Chicken with saté sauce and a Cheddar cheese burger are available for carnivores, and the dessert not to miss is the excellent vanilla- cream-filled praline-pecan millefeuille, which is made in Lignac’s excellent pâtisserie just across the street.

Le Chardenoux, 1 rue Jules-Vallès, Paris 11th. Tel.+33 (0)1 43 71 49 52. Average à la carte €50.

From France Today magazine

Green Garden Cocktail at Le Chardenoux. Photo: Thomas Dhellemmes

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Alexander Lobrano grew up in Connecticut, and lived in Boston, New York and London before moving to Paris, his home today, in 1986. He was European Correspondent for Gourmet magazine from 1999 until its closing, and has written about food and travel for Saveur, Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, the New York Times, Wall Street Journal, Guardian, Travel & Leisure, Departures, Conde Nast Traveler, and many other publications in the United States and the United Kingdom. He is the author of HUNGRY FOR PARIS, 2nd Edition (Random House, 4/2014), HUNGRY FOR FRANCE (Rizzoli, 4/2014), and MY PLACE AT THE TABLE, newly published in June 2021.

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