Perros-Guirec, a “Bijou” in Brittany 

Perros-Guirec beckons. This relaxed seaside village is more regal than most, with stately villas and manor homes composed of pink granite stones, their jardins boasting showy hydrangeas in rose, crimson and eggplant. The palm trees seem unexpected, but welcome. Even in January and February you will find flowers, thanks to the exquisite camélias that take center stage. The streets are dotted with whimsical shops such as Les Pois sont Roz and pretty little ports.  

There are 13km of coastline, including three fine sandy beaches, but it is the boulders that capture my attention. Some 300 million years old, this land of legends looks to have been the playground of giants. Imposing shapes that resemble everything from Napoleon’s hat to a massive mushroom have free reign, as Perros is the first town to protect the coastline from buildings.

A stroll along the rugged coast will provide endless photo opportunities. Wander to nearby Ploumanac’h to the Phare de Men Ruz. While this active lighthouse composed of pink granite is closed to the public, it will provide for stunning pictures, all varying with the changing light. 

Tides vary greatly here, alternating between an air of tristesse (sadness) at low tide, while abandoned boats wistfully await the return of water, and the bobbing boats at high tide, joyful and picturesque against a backdrop of endless sea and sky. Scuba diving and snorkeling are popular here, as well as kayaking, stand up paddleboarding, rowing and sailing. 

Just off the coast lie Les Sept Îles, resembling a humpback, prehistoric sea creature. These seven islets are rustic and wild, adding color and texture to the infinite expanse of blue. 

Turning your attention back to town, l’Atelier Fermier is a great place to fill your panier with quality local specialties (allow ample time in this beautiful shop of treasures!) and Grain de Sail chocolate bars from nearby Morlaix make excellent gifts, if you can resist the temptation to eat them yourself! Speaking of culinary delights, an innovative gourmet menu awaits at Balafenn where Cynthia and Alexis invite you into their cozy cocoon throughout the year. 

For art and history lovers, there is a little bijou that locals frequent year after year. Galerie Stephan is the longest running gallery in Perros-Guirec, open 46 years, and is curated with loving care by Mme Marie Stephan. She explains that the arrival of the railroad at the end of the 19th century brought an influx of painters who found the picturesque town of Perros to be filled with beautiful light and incredible landscapes. Internationally renowned painter Maurice Denis was one such “locomotive” who inspired others. The more paintings emerged, the more artists arrived. They bought summer homes, and returned year after year, much as lucky vacationers do today. In fact, they sense a connection to these painters, who adored the same light and landscapes. Residents appreciate viewing their surroundings through the eyes of painters, who maybe captured something they had not noticed before. It is also a chance to glance back at the world of generations past, many of whose métiers no longer exist.  Paintings provide a history lesson that is much more rich than a textbook.

If you arrive in the summer, you may be able to attend the exhibition which takes place at La Maison des Traouïero (no need to try to pronounce it!) during July and August. Mme Stephan has been the commissaire since 2012 and has just completed her 38th expo. Information can be found at the local mairie, and in the plentiful posters found throughout the town. In quieter times, you can still wander into the galerie. Mme Stephan is happy to share her expertise, and to ship paintings internationally if you find your coup de coeur. 

Located between the tourist destinations of St. Malo and Brest, Perros-Guirec definitely deserves a detour. Both rugged and charming, sophisticated, yet relaxed and whimsical, Perros-Guirec has captured my heart and will no doubt capture yours.

For more information, visit www.perros-guirec.com