A Non-Skier’s Guide to Arc 1950

More people are flocking to the French Alps than ever, but it’s not all skiing at high altitude. Ski resorts are evolving to embrace the non-skier, those drawn by the crisp Alpine air or in search of adventure beyond the slopes, and few places deliver quite like Arc 1950.

I stood at London St Pancras station, having gone through security, coffee in hand, and waited for the announcement of my platform for my Eurostar to Paris. With ski bags being dragged on the floor and helmets swinging from backpacks, it was clear I was surrounded by others who, like me, are heading to the Alps by train this season. 

Arguably, it was the least stressed I have ever felt travelling to a ski destination. Unlike flights and airport transfers, which are often at the mercy of bad weather, the journey to Arc 1950 ran smoothly from start to finish.

A simple métro change after the Eurostar took me from Gare du Nord to Gare de Lyon, followed by a train to Bourg Saint Maurice, which set everything in motion. From there, a funicular carried me up to Les Arcs 1600, before a short bus ride brought me into Arc 1950 village, no car needed.

This laid-back trip to the mountains took away a lot of the usual travel stress and made arriving feel surprisingly simple. Before long, I was no longer thinking about how I got up the mountain, but instead diving straight into what Arc 1950 has to offer, even if skiing wasn’t part of the plan.

Aiguille Rouge Zip Line

Choosing not to ski or snowboard doesn’t mean that you’re not a thrill seeker, and Arc 2000’s zipline, the steepest in France, is sure to get the adrenaline pumping. 

As I took the Varet gondola near Arc 1950’s quaint village, I saw something fly by out of the corner of my eye. I looked back just in time to catch the flash of someone’s boots hurtling through the air at breakneck speed in tow, vanishing into the distance. 

Despite not being particularly afraid of heights, it was not a comforting sight. The daredevils taking on the zipline can either do it solo, in twos, headfirst or ‘seated.’ I opted to bring someone with me on the double ‘seat.’ 

The thought of someone with me was meant to be reassuring, but as we got kitted out in harnesses, the conversation slowly died. When we were told to step up onto the platform and face the direction we were about to race down, revealing a sudden drop with nothing but metal gates between us, the silence became palpable. 

Perhaps this was felt by our instructor too, who shouted ‘3,2,1’ yet didn’t pull the switch, instead waiting just long enough for us to look at each other in confused panic before sending us flying down at 127km/h.

Luge 2000

At Arc 2000, there is a 3km luge (sledge) track, which is easily accessible from Arc 1950. Unlike the zipwire, this winding track looked easy and welcoming from the Arcabulle chairlift that the trail snakes under. I chuckled to myself as I watched people below crashing into walls or even walking down the track, dragging their bright red luges behind them. 

After a very brief briefing on how to control the luge, a so-called ‘simple’ lever system on either side for braking and steering, I was brimming with confidence and raring to go. I breezed past others still hesitating at the top of the track, settled myself onto the sledge, and headed down the hill.

It was here that I immediately skidded into the side and was thrown off my luge. What followed was a slightly hectic 15-minute descent of crashing, falling and laughing, both from myself and those watching from the lift. It was much more challenging than I expected, but also some of the most fun I’ve ever had on a luge. 

Snowshoe Hike

If you’re looking for a more relaxed activity that gets you out in nature, then a guided snowshoeing hike should be on your alpine itinerary. We were driven to the edge of a forest, and our guide helped us attach the cleats to our mountain boots. We were also given poles to help support us as we left the trail and headed into the forest.

We were lucky enough to go on our hike just after a snowfall. The trees are dusted with snow, and fresh animal tracks are the only signs of life in the woods. The rest of the forest floor lies under a perfectly untouched blanket of white.

Our two-hour route through the forest took us deep into the serene forest, with natural viewpoints of Italy’s mountains and Mont Blanc. We stopped for a cup of warming tea beside a snow-covered frozen lake before starting our descent, which turned out to be slightly more challenging for both us and our guide with such soft snow underfoot, but still very manageable for most fitness levels.

Deep Nature Spa

With so many activities on offer in Arc 1950, it doesn’t take long for the exertion to build, especially if you’re fitting in time on the slopes as well. For those who need a break from the physical side of alpine life, Arc 1950’s Deep Nature Spa is the X on a treasure map.

Tucked away on the edge of the village, it’s a calm, low-lit space designed for relaxation, with themed caves, treatment rooms, saunas and hammams. But the real highlight, I found, is outside. The Nordic baths, set against a direct view of Mont Blanc, are easily the best part. Sinking into the warm water surrounded by snow and mountain air is essentially unbeatable.

The spa is open daily from 10-12 pm and 2-8 pm, making it easy to fit in a visit around a day on the slopes and other alpine activities.

Arc 1950 is leading the way in showing that the Alps aren’t reserved for skiers during winter. High-adrenaline experiences like the zipline and luge, snowshoeing through quiet forests and unwinding in the spa all make Arc 1950 a destination that makes space for every kind of mountain holiday. For non-skiers, or anyone wanting a break from the slopes, it offers a way to enjoy the Alps that feels just as complete, and often just as memorable, as skiing itself.

Useful links: 

Aiguille Rouge Zipline

Luge 2000

Snowshoeing Arc 1950

Arc 1950 Deep Nature Spa

I was a guest of Arc 1950 tourisme and Inghams Ski. For more information about the resort, visit www.arc1950.com/en. Follow Arc 1950 on Instagram and Facebook.

Inghams Ski offer 7 nights in Arc 1950, Les Arcs including train transfers and the services of a Destination Expert for £1034 pp https://www.inghams.co.uk/ski-holidays/ski-resorts/france/paradiski-ski-area/les-arcs/arc-1950-le-village-apartments. Visit their website www.inghams.co.uk

Lead photo credit : Photo: David Andre ©