Where to Eat in Dordogne: Hotel de Bouilhac, near Lascaux IV

Where to Eat in Dordogne: Hotel de Bouilhac, near Lascaux IV

When Lascaux IV and the International Centre for Cave Art opened on the edge of tiny Montignac in the Périgord Noir in Dordogne in 2016, visitor numbers to this charming village surged. Now chef Christopher Maury and his wife Karine have created the charming hotel and restaurant that was previously lacking in this fascinating destination by renovating a handsome 17th-century stone mansion that was originally built for the private physician of King Louis XV, who gave it his name.

The restaurant and bar are on the street level of the three-storey building and are beautifully decorated, as is the entire property. The dining room occupies a vaulted stone cellar decorated with a striking wrought-iron wine rack that covers an entire wall and is furnished with antiques and bold modern lighting.

The Hôtel de Bouilhac

Maury’s cooking style is exactly what one hopes to find in the country: it’s rustic but sophisticated, without being too fussy. Dining with a friend, we started with goose foie gras with a chutney of citrus and dried fruits for me, and a tartare of trout with coriander and avocado in a pickled-lemon vinaigrette for her; and both dishes were superbly made and generously served.

Next, a juicy côte de porc noir (the delicious pork from a special breed of black pigs from Gascony) for me, and skate with lime, fennel and a beurre noisette for her. Lemon tart and saffron-and-honey flan with madeleines concluded this very good meal.

Note that there is an excellent selection of local wines by the glass on offer here, and that the gently-priced wine list showcases wines from the Périgord including Bergerac, Cahors and Monbazillac.

Avenue Professeur Faurel, Montignac. Tel. +33 (0)5 53 51 21 46. Dinner for two €80. www.hoteldebouilhac-montignac.fr

From France Today magazine

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Alexander Lobrano grew up in Connecticut, and lived in Boston, New York and London before moving to Paris, his home today, in 1986. He was European Correspondent for Gourmet magazine from 1999 until its closing, and has written about food and travel for Saveur, Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, the New York Times, Wall Street Journal, Guardian, Travel & Leisure, Departures, Conde Nast Traveler, and many other publications in the United States and the United Kingdom. He is the author of HUNGRY FOR PARIS, 2nd Edition (Random House, 4/2014), HUNGRY FOR FRANCE (Rizzoli, 4/2014), and MY PLACE AT THE TABLE, newly published in June 2021.

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    2018-07-25 21:07:44
    Hey Peter, I live in the Dordogne, Issigeac near Bergerac and you would be knocked out at how many good restaurants there are here! I run gites (self catering holiday accommodation) and my clientele eat out a lot. We have to keep abreast of what is good and what isn't, to give our advice, it is a lot of research! No wonder that I have put on weight..... Come down and try the places, make sure you get good advice and you won't go wrong.


  • France Today Editors
    2018-07-24 16:25:34
    France Today Editors
    Thanks so much for your comment. We like to feature tried-and-tested restaurants that we can recommend to our readers and guarantee they'll have a good food experience. Why waste print space on something that's not good? If we don't like it, we generally won't write about it.


  • Peter
    2018-07-24 09:36:39
    Just one question: Is there *ever* a negative review here? I have have browsed through countless reviews now – and every single one was very positive, if not an all-out rave. How is a reader supposed to take that seriously?? Or is it the purpose of France today to promote french gastronomy? Then you should clearly say so. Merci.