L’Hédoniste

Though I’m not too keen on its name, L’Hédoniste in the Sentier—the old garment district in the 2nd arrondissement—comes as a welcome surprise despite a nondescript decor of bare wood tables, mirrors and a spotlighted service bar. Chef Sébastien Dubrulle does delectable cosmopolitan comfort food dishes like squid-ink risotto with baby squid, ravioli stuffed with stewed beef, and guinea hen with chanterelles in a jus de volaille, and his associate Arthur Pétillault has assembled an excellent list of organic and biodynamic wines.

14 rue Léopold Bellan, 2nd, 01.40.26.87.33. Lunch menus €18–€23.50, à la carte €40. Prices are approximate, per person without wine.

Alexander Lobrano’s book Hungry for Paris is published by Random House. www.hungryforparis.com

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