French Restaurant Review: La Table des Chefs, Reims

Since it’s so challenging to get a reservation at Racines (book as far in advance as possible), which is my favourite restaurant in Reims, I’m always glad to have another good table to suggest in the champagne capital.

A recent newcomer I very much enjoyed is La Table des Chefs, which the G.H. Mumm champagne house launched this past spring with a residency by talented young Parisian chef Mallory Gabsi, who has a Michelin-starred restaurant in the French capital’s 17th arrondissement. The idea of the restaurant is to discover that champagne is not only a delightful apéritif, but a superb wine to drink throughout a meal, and also to show how different vintages and cuvées produce champagnes that pair well with specific foods.

Stopping by in mid-August to sample chef Florian Barbarot’s superb four-course €55 lunch menu (which runs to €95 if you opt for the wine pairing something I can heartily recommend), we were immediately intrigued by a first course of herring ‘sea foam’ with frozen peanuts and Cordon Rouge champagne foam, a fascinating medley of flavours. We also loved the next course – roasted Japanese mushrooms with coffee butter. A succulent main course of trout came with panisse (chickpea-flour bonbons), and this playfully inventive meal concluded with a dessert of lentils and rhubarb with champagne foam.

Since this restaurant is based on the model of an artist residency, a new young chef will take over the kitchen every three months. This chef residency will be open all year round to offer champagne lovers and gastronomes a unique experience of sharing and discovery.

31 Rue du Champ de Mars, Reims, bookings only on G.H. Mumm.

Open Thursday to Monday, Closed Tuesday and Wednesday, Advance reservations required.

Prix-fixe lunch menu €55, four-course prix-fixe menu €75, six-course prix-fixe menu €115

From France Today Magazine