Restaurant Review: Origines, Le Broc

 
Restaurant Review: Origines, Le Broc

Alexander Lobrano seizes the day and discovers some of France’s finest kitchens. In this article, he visits Origines in Le Broc, Alpes-Maritimes. 

With its magnificent rural landscapes, fresh air and wealth of history, the Auvergne is the perfect destination as many people cautiously begin to travel again after the trauma of Covid-19.

And an ideal place to stay and dine in this welcoming region is Origines, young chef Adrien Descouls’ hotel-restaurant just outside Issoire in the Puy-de-Dôme. The rooms come with sleek contemporary design and most of them have beautiful views over the surrounding countryside, and the service is polished but warm and friendly.

Dine in style at Origines © Aurelio Rodriguez Origines

Descouls’ suave, contemporary Auvergnat cooking has rightly won him a Michelin star, and it intrigues by infusing regional dishes and produce with an invigorating modernity. Stopping here for the night recently, the winter menu delighted with steamed foie gras with cabbage; omble (lake fish) with an elegant sabayon boosted by vin jaune from the Jura; three delicious riffs on pot au feu; a magnificent cheese trolley; and two desserts, one made with fermented carrot and the other with clementines and chestnuts.

The quality of the cooking here is outstanding for the money, and the wine list offers an excellent occasion to discover the lesser-known wines of the Auvergne. This place is an excellent stopping point when driving southwards across France, or as a destination all on its own – it is listed, after all, as one of the Plus Beaux Détours de France.

Origines, rue du Clos de la Chaux, Le Broc
Tel. (33) 04 73 71 71 71
www.restaurant-origines.fr
€85, €100, €145.

From France Today magazine

Lead photo credit : Enjoy Adrien Descouls' restaurant during a relaxing stay at the hotel © Aurelio Rodriguez Origines

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Alexander Lobrano grew up in Connecticut, and lived in Boston, New York and London before moving to Paris, his home today, in 1986. He was European Correspondent for Gourmet magazine from 1999 until its closing, and has written about food and travel for Saveur, Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, the New York Times, Wall Street Journal, Guardian, Travel & Leisure, Departures, Conde Nast Traveler, and many other publications in the United States and the United Kingdom. He is the author of HUNGRY FOR PARIS, 2nd Edition (Random House, 4/2014), HUNGRY FOR FRANCE (Rizzoli, 4/2014), and MY PLACE AT THE TABLE, newly published in June 2021.