On the Left Bank, restaurateur Stéphane Marcuzzi and chef Aymeric Kräml scored a hit a few years ago with their charming bistro L’Epigramme in Saint Germain des Prés. Now they’ve moved to larger quarters in Montparnasse because, as Marcuzzi explains, “the chef really needed more room”. Their new L’Epicuriste is much more spacious, if a bit noisy, and Kraml’s cooking is as good as ever. The dinner offerings recently included a delicious terrine of sanglier (wild boar), a superb lièvre à la royale (hare in a rich gizzard sauce) and swordfish with herb pesto. If the portions seem to be noticeably smaller since the move, and the wine has become much more expensive, the quality and creativity of the kitchen remain outstanding. (In case you were wondering, the new crew at the old L’Epigramme is making a real success of their venture, too.)

41 blvd Pasteur, 15th, Lunch menus €24–€28, dinner €34. Prices are approximate, per person without wine

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Alexander Lobrano’s book Hungry for Paris is published by Random House. www.hungryforparis.com

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