Le Moulin de la Galette: Une Renaissance
It was a wonderful surprise to find that this mythic restaurant of Montmartre, the name of which is so well-known, is under new management and has been completely refurbished. Two partners and businessmen, Cedric Barbier and Nicolas Tourneville, wished to revive this legendary place where Parisians rushed to frequent in bygone days. They succeeded!
The restaurant is set inside one of only two remaining windmills left standing out of the original dozen or more from the 17th century. It was enchanting to dine at this historic venue which was so popular with artists such as Renoir, Van Gogh, Toulouse-Lautrec and Picasso during the late 19th century, and which was most notably immortalized by Pierre Auguste Renoir’s festive painting, Bal du Moulin de la Galette (a copy of which hangs in the restaurant).
The ambience is charming, with a contemporary chic decor. The zinc-topped bar retains the cozy, brasserie feel, while the linen tablecloths and napkins add a touch of elegance. The meal created by chef Anthony Dertemmemann (formerly of MaSa and sous-chef Chez Michel Rostang), was perfect from start to finish.
The menu offers classically inspired cuisine, such as the escargots from Burgundy, and the terrine de foie gras served with chutney, along with other modern bistro dishes – all beautifully presented and cooked perfectly. Also well executed was the fish, and above all the meats roasted in a natural coal Josper oven (the pride of the restaurant!). All ingredients are seasonal and market-driven.
Be sure to leave room for the incredible desserts, of which the lemon meringue tart and caramel and salted butter milllefeuille were standouts.
Also ideal for a lovely lunch or romantic dinner is the intimate and bucolic terrace surrounded by greenery. My only regret was that we did not have time to return to this wonderful spot. Voilà – a very good address in Montmartre!
Le Moulin de la Galette, Open daily. A la carte, or set menus (23E or 29E at noon, except Sundays). 83 Rue Lepic, 18th arrondissement, Metro – Blanche/Abbesses. Tel: 33 (0) 1 46 06 84 77
All images from Le Moulin de la Galette
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