The Renaissance of Nantes’s Muscadet Wines
Your regular serving of news, views, dégustations and other titbits from the rich and varied larder of la Belle France.
A fresh look at Muscadet
On France’s Atlantic coast, Dominic Rippon charts the renaissance of Nantes’s signature white wine.
For many wine drinkers, Muscadet remains a classic house white, the perfect foil for fresh shellfish in a local bistro. Yet in the vineyards around Nantes, at the western edge of the Loire Valley, the appellation has undergone a remarkable evolution. Lower yields, sharper site selection and a renewed focus on quality have turned it into a source of concentrated, longer-lived wines.
Muscadet is made exclusively from Melon de Bourgogne, introduced from Burgundy in the 17th century. The grape benefits from the cooling influence of the Atlantic and an intricate patchwork of granite, gneiss, schist and gabbro soils. Its naturally high acidity and restrained fruit allow it to express differences in terroir with unusual clarity, producing wines defined by citrus freshness and saline minerality.
The largest and best-known appellation, Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine, is also home to the traditional sur lie style. Wines rest on their fine lees through the winter before bottling, developing texture and complexity while retaining their hallmark freshness. The result is a distinctive balance of crisp acidity, subtle lees-derived notes of bread dough and orchard fruit, and a characteristic maritime tang.
The region’s growing confidence is best illustrated by its seven recognised crus: Clisson, Gorges, Le Pallet, Château-Thébaud, Goulaine, Monnières-Saint-Fiacre and Mouzillon-Tillières. First introduced in 2011, these village designations recognise some of the area’s finest sites and are governed by stricter production standards, including lower yields and extended lees ageing – typically between 18 months and two years, depending on the cru. The wines show more depth of flavour than standard Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine and can evolve gracefully for at least a decade.
Red wines remain a small but intriguing part of the Pays Nantais story, and the Berligou grape is among its rarest threads. Almost lost after the great frost of 1709, this local red variety has found new life with a handful of growers, including Domaine Poiron Dabin, in elegant wines scented with dark cherry, subtle spice and a bright seam of acidity. Muscadet’s vineyard area has contracted dramatically, from 25,000 hectares in the 1980s to 5,400 hectares today. What the region has lost in scale, it has regained in identity, with today’s producers making distinctive, more complex wines that remain among the best value crisp whites anywhere in France.
DOMINIC’S CHOICE
Domaine Luneau-Papin
domaineluneaupapin.com
Choice wine: Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Goulaine ‘Excelsior’ 2021
Domaine Poiron Dabin
www.poiron-dabin.com
Choice wine: Berligou Rouge 2023
Domaine de la Pépière
www.domainedelapepiere.com
Choice wine: Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine Gorges 2022
EAR’S SCALLOP SEASON
Each autumn, Normandy celebrates the return of the coquille Saint-Jacques with a series of lively seafood festivals – and no wonder, given 70% of scallops landed in France come from Normandy, making it the country’s scallop heartland.
From early October to early December, fishing ports along the coast come alive with bustling markets, cookery demonstrations, live music and family entertainment. The celebrations kick off in Granville (October 3–4), before moving to Ouistreham (October 17–18), Villers-sur-Mer (October 23–25), Port-en-Bessin-Huppain (November 7–8), Dieppe (November 14–15), Courseulles-sur-Mer (November 21–22), Grandcamp-Maisy (November 28–29) and Trouville-sur-Mer (December 5–6).
As you tour the coast, you’ll find festival menus featuring scallops grilled, pan-fried or served in rich, creamy sauces, alongside oysters, mussels and other local seafood. There’s also the chance to buy freshly landed scallops direct from local fishermen, making these lively festivals the ideal opportunity to sample Normandy’s finest seafood at its seasonal best – and perhaps take some home for dinner.
GOURMET TRAILS: CHOCOLATE HEAVEN
For anyone with a sweet tooth, few events rival Paris’s Salon du Chocolat. Returning to Paris Expo Porte de Versailles from October 28 to November 1, the 31st edition of the world’s largest event dedicated to chocolate and pastry brings together leading chocolatiers, pâtissiers, cocoa producers and artisan makers from around the globe.
The Salon is a mouthwatering celebration of chocolate in all its forms. Visitors can browse exhibitors showcasing everything from handcrafted bonbons and single-origin bars to elaborate showpieces and innovative desserts. Live demonstrations by acclaimed chefs, including the popular Pastry Show, reveal the techniques behind fine pâtisserie, while tastings offer the chance to discover new flavours and meet the people behind them.
Among this year’s highlights is the Allée de l’Inspiration, where chocolatiers and designers present spectacular chocolate sculptures and wearable creations inspired by the theme Incandescence. The Maison du Père Noël returns with its tempting display of festive bûches by leading palace hotels and pastry chefs, while Choco’Live hosts competitions and interactive events, including the Master du pain au chocolat. More than 230 workshops, suitable for beginners and enthusiasts alike, offer plenty of opportunities to sharpen your own chocolate-making skills.
So whether you’re doing a spot of early Christmas gift shopping, are looking to pick up some gourmet tips from the experts, or just want to eat an indecent amount of chocolate, the Salon du Chocolat is certainly the place to be this autumn.
HARVEST FESTIVAL
PARIS’ WINE HARVEST
Paris’s famous Clos Montmartre vineyard celebrates the grape harvest from October 7–11 with the Fête des Vendanges, featuring the Parcours du Goût, tastings, concerts, parades and guided visits to the vineyard
ARDÈCHE CHESTNUTS
Each autumn, the AOP Châtaigne d’Ardèche takes centre stage at the village Castagnades festivals, where roasting pans, chestnut cream, cakes and local produce celebrate one of France’s best-loved seasonal ingredients.
PROVENCE’S OLIVE OIL
Autumn is olive harvest time across Provence. Look for freshly pressed huile nouvelle, which is prized for its fresh, grassy aroma and peppery finish, and enjoy it simply with warm bread.
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