Authentic Southwest: A Sun-Kissed Driving Tour of the Southwest

My early summer sojourn around Authentic Southwest – the tourism label that brings together the very best experiences to be had in the Gers, Tarn-et-Garonne and Lot-et-Garonne departments – begins on a sweltering June morning, with France in pleine canicule (heatwave). At 11am, my hire car thermometer is already nudging 28°C as I drive through the dreamy ribbons of wheatfi eld-flanked lanes of the Gers. It is undeniably beautiful and it’s usually charming to be stuck behind a tractor on a single-lane road, but I have a pressing engagement. I am late for a rendez-vous with a bona fide VIP, one of France’s best-known figures – in the village of his birth, no less.

Except that he is not entirely real, nor is he still alive, but rather a literary creation and romanticised version of one of Louis XIV’s elite protection corps, whose swashbuckling derring-do was embellished for dramatic effect by Alexandre Dumas in his 1844 novel, The Three Musketeers.

Charles Ogier de Batz de Castelmore, born around 1611 and better known as Count d’Artagnan in print and on film, is still very much in the news. On the very day I arrive in Lupiac, my enthusiastic guide Alina – who manages the village’s very informative Musée d’Artagnan – is eagerly awaiting updates from a press conference by researchers in Maastricht, Holland. His purported skeleton was found three months earlier beneath a church and investigations that may prove these remains to be his are causing much excitement. He was killed in combat during the siege of Maastricht in 1673.

After a stroll around the cute, tranquil village, I pop into Église Saint-Barthélémy for a pause fraîcheur and to appreciate the excellent permanent photography exhibition on rural life from yesteryear.

Next we head for lunch on the shaded terrace of La Taverne d’Artagnan. As I enjoy my d’Artagnan-themed menu, including a rapière de poulet – a kind of Gascon kebab of chicken marinated in the local tipple, Floc de Gascogne (more of which later) – I eye the epic statue of our hero mousquetaire on the pristine main square. He is atop a horse that rears up on its hind legs which, Alina informs me, signifies that he died on the battlefield. With swathes of hirondelles (swallows) swooping and lifting all around on gentle summer breezes, it makes for a dramatic scene in the sunshine.

Bidding Lupiac adieu, I briefly pop to the nearby lake where locals enjoy a cooling dip and a light meal at the guinguette. Come high summer, this is strongly recommended for tourists but time is not on my side – my next stop is calling: an exotic garden with a difference.

A BUCOLIC LABOUR OF LOVE

La Palmeraie du Sarthou in Bétous is the stunning creation of Daniel Fort and his wife Marie-Christine, plant enthusiasts who have conjured a verdant paradise during a 45-year passion project. Initially it was just palm trees that dominated (hence its name) but more cold-resistant species were needed so today, this bucolic 10-hectare oasis of calm also boasts towering bamboo, fruit orchards and many exotic plant species, as well as lotus and water lily ponds along its serene, shaded pathways. Daniel’s easy manner during our tour reveals his pride and passion for the site.

“I thought I’d be the master but actually I am the servant,” he says of the constant demands on his time for cutting, trimming, mowing and planting. He is clearly at one with nature but he loves art too – here and there are sculptures by Gers artists in concrete, stone, metal and marble. Along with plenty of benches for a sit-down, they lend extra interest for those enjoying a two-hour visit. In short, this is a must-see for garden lovers in the Gers.

The allure of Authentic Southwest stems largely from its people’s affinity with the terroir and their desire to share it with others.

Nowhere is this more tangibly felt than at my next stop, the Lagajan wine domaine near Eauze – the heart of Armagnac production country. As I roll into the gravel driveway, I spot the owners sitting around a table beneath a giant oak tree, where a tasting session is just ending. Is it too early for me to try a drop of France’s oldest brandy? Maybe I can just tremper les lèvres (wet my lips) – I’m driving, after all. Dimitri serves up a snifter before Katia shows me the monumental wood-fired alambic from 1907 that they use to make their famed spirit.

The matriarch Gisèle Georgacaracos is a charming, loquacious host and regales me with the family’s long history of producing Armagnac, white, red and rosé Côtes de Gascogne wines, apéritif Floc de Gascogne (vin de liqueur fortified with Armagnac) and eau-de-vie.

She then recounts with fondness her part in the story of the Treasure of Eauze. In the 1980s, 28,054 coins, as well as around 50 pieces of jewellery and precious objects from the third-century Gallo-Roman era – totalling 120kg – were found beneath the cobblestones near the former railway station in Eauze and they needed a place to be securely housed. Gisèle, then working at the mairie, rushed to tell the mayor that the town should buy up a bank building that was for sale, or the treasure would inevitably be shipped off elsewhere for display. It worked – the impressive haul remains on display in the former bank vault.

Leaving this super-friendly family with a promise to return, I head to the edge of Eauze where the equally affable Belgian couple Benoît and Patricia Laurent look after me in style with a smile at their wonderful 4* maison d’hôtes and gîte property, Le Jardin d’Elusa. They upped sticks from their native Belgium for a sunny new life in Southwest France and provide high-end accommodation, great food and chat.

The next morning after a rapid market visit in Eauze (9am is perfect for finding a parking space then snaffling the best apricots and cherries without queueing), I head for the Villa Gallo-Romaine de Séviac in Montréal-du-Gers, a sister museum to the Treasure of Eauze and a must for history lovers. Here, 625m² of magical mosaics preserved in situ – the largest in France – were discovered by chance during farm construction work in 1864.

Now housed under an architectural award-winning roof structure, they reveal life in a luxurious rural palace covering 6,500m² – complete with extensive thermal baths – via documentation, models and audio guides.

IN ROYAL FOOTSTEPS

Taking my leave of Gers, I head up into Lot-et-Garonne towards Nérac. En route, two things catch my eye. First, high on a promontory to the left, a majestic château (which I soon learn from my great guide, Pierre, is sadly abandoned); and secondly a sign for the Musée du Liège et du Bouchon (Cork Museum) in Mézin, which to me sounds just about as important as the Louvre when it comes to honouring French history! I reluctantly forego deviating to the latter but make a note to come back in future.

Nérac, the capital of the Albret region (named after the locally powerful maternal ancestors of Henri of Navarre, King of France from 1589 to 1610), is a lovely town straddling the River Baïse, with a port (for the trade of wine and Armagnac in the 19th century; today it’s for pleasure cruises), a lovely shaded park (La Garenne, home to September’s Albret Jazz Festival – Kid Creole and the Coconuts this year!); and a picture-postcard old town (Petit Nérac).

I enjoy lunch at L’Escadron Volant, in the shadow of Nérac’s literal crown jewel, the handsome castle-museum – with medieval and Renaissance elements – where Henri and his first wife Marguerite de Valois, better known as La Reine Margot (Queen Margot), lived for six years.

Margot also figures in the history of my next stop, the imposing Le Moulin des Tours, a splendid fortified mill built beside the River Gélise at Barbaste, just 10 minutes from Nérac. She is said to have bathed (in privacy, obviously) here – more laborious activities over the centuries since its 12th-century origins include flour milling, cloth making, electricity generation and cork manufacture.

Top tip: cross the beautiful footbridge for a panoramic view, one of the best to be found in Lot-et-Garonne.

I head back to the River Baïse to explore the ‘English bastide’ of Vianne, a real charmer with impressively intact ramparts and four village portes (gates). On the flag, English readers might spot the Three Lions alongside the Occitanie cross, harking back to 1284, when the village was formed by an agreement between Jehan de Grailly, seneschal of the Agenais for King Edward I of England, and Jourdain de L’Isle, Seigneur of Montgaillard. If you love a self-drive river cruise, nearby Buzet-sur-Baïse is a major hub.

This year is the centenary of the death of Claude Monet and a special year for the Jardin des Nénuphars Latour-Marliac, the world’s oldest water lily nursery and home to the National Collection of the genus Nymphaea.

It was founded in 1875 by Joseph Bory Latour-Marliac, who created hybrid colour species using methods still a mystery. He exhibited plants at the World’s Fair in Paris in 1889 (the same year the Eiffel Tower was unveiled), where they caught the eye of the Impressionist painter. Five years later, once his Giverny pond was finished, he ordered hardy lilies from Latour-Marliac (you can see the order forms in the small museum) and they became his signature subject in more than 200 paintings. Wandering around the various ponds today, you can spot the original lilies as well as later hybrids and lotus plants, and buy those that catch your eye as they did Monet’s.

Nearby is Latour-Marliac’s home, recently transformed by visionary scenographer and landscape designer Thierry Huau into an adorable cabinet of curiosities. This magical museum is filled with furnishings from the era alongside tech installations and videos. It is absolutely brilliant, with tours from friendly local association volunteers. You can make an enjoyable full day of it here in Temple-sur-Lot, combining a nursery tour, lunch at the excellent on-site restaurant, a cabinet of curiosities visit and a stop at the Commanderie, a historic Templar and Hospitaller complex built around 1260.

That afternoon I hit the road again, moving into the Tarn-et-Garonne to drop in on one of its three Plus Beaux Villages: fortified Lauzerte (the others are Auvillar and Bruniquel). It is an important stopover for Saint-Jacques de Compostelle pilgrims (17,000 come here annually – don’t miss the Pilgrim’s Garden below the Esplanade de la Barbacane) and I appreciate the medieval façades, half-timbered houses and quirky ‘upturned’ paving stones in one corner of the lovely arcaded main square, Place des Cornières. A nice surrealist touch!

That evening I manage a quick refreshing dip (by now it is about 38°C) in the infinity pool at the marvellous Domaine du Belvédère in Montagudet, before recharging the batteries and then enjoying a spectacular buffet breakfast the next morning, all set up for my final day’s visits.

Before the main event, Moissac, I love the chilled Saturday morning vibe in the Quercy Blanc villages of Montjoi and Castelsagrat. At the latter, while idly browsing a brocante on the arcaded Place de la Liberté, I get chatting to Katia, the charming owner. She very much appreciates her English-speaking clientele. “Without them I wouldn’t eat!” she jokes.

MAGICAL MOISSAC

My tip to anyone arriving in beautiful Moissac on a sunny summer Saturday is to take whatever parking space you find – not only is it market day but visitors flock to the famed Saint-Pierre Abbey.

I go towards the river where there are plenty of on-street spots along the Quai Magenta and Bassin du Canal. This is also handy for a stroll around the town’s little-known Art Deco quarter. These stylish buildings were born of tragedy – in 1930, floods left 80% of the town under water and destroyed 600 homes. Massive reconstruction followed the trend of the time, Art Deco, and the tourist office provides guidance for a walking tour highlighting the finest examples.

I enjoy a delicious lunch beside the Tarn river at the Art Deco Uvarium, an octagonal pavilion guinguette from 1932. It features a painted ceiling, a classic local menu including confit de canard and salads, and – a first for me – a hand-held water spray for each table, to ward off the summer heat! Back in town for the fitting, epic finale for my Authentic Southwest tour: the cloister of the Abbaye de Moissac, accessed via a door to the left of the giant tympanum above the front entrance. Its iconography takes inspiration from one of the visions in St John’s Book of Revelation, and it is one of those once seen, never forgotten French sights. Opposite are restaurants and cafés, possibly with the best view in France for those who appreciate religious architecture.

As for the cloister, it is remarkable for its state of preservation. With 76 historiated capitals depicting Biblical episodes or the lives of saints, and a marble slab on a central pillar in the western gallery confirming the 1100 date of construction, it is a marvel.

With that my visit to Authentic Southwest ends on an aesthetic and spiritual high note. As I sit looking through the photos I’ve taken along the way, I decide everyone from gourmands to garden lovers, history enthusiasts to spirit sippers, can find their piece of French heaven here. For the curious-minded and the bon viveur alike, its people and places represent the best of France.

HERITAGE

Enjoy one of the most spectacular views in the Lot-et-Garonne with fascinating industrial history by visiting Le Moulin des Tours at Barbaste. The largest fortified mill in France and its very cute Roman footbridge over the Gélise river make for a winning combination (www.moulindestours.com).

Heritage of the floral kind can be enjoyed at Le Jardin des Nénuphars Latour-Marliac in Temple-sur-Lot, which is the cradle of water lily production in France and inspired Impressionist Claude Monet, who ordered plenty for his Giverny garden (shop.latour-marliac.com).

Right next door is water lily hybrid pioneer and botanist Joseph Bory Latour-Marliac’s former home, which has been transformed into an amazing immersive museum packed with accessible and fun features (www.nympheas.info/le-cabinet-de-curiosités).

Moissac Abbey is an undisputed gem of religious heritage in Tarn-et-Garonne. First gaze up at the epic tympanum above the main door depicting Christ’s return on earth at the the end of time, then explore inside the parish church. Entry to the stunning cloister, one of the largest and best-preserved cloisters from the Romanesque period, is via a separate door – a ticket includes access to the cloister, the bell tower’s high chapel and the side chapels with exhibitions. www.abbayemoissac.com/en

Whether you are walking the Saint-Jacques de Compostelle route or not, a visit to the Pilgrims’ Garden in Lauzerte offers “a contemplative pause amidst nature, symbols and spirituality”. Inspired by the pilgrims’ journey, this landscaped garden blends green spaces, artistic works, and playful pathways in a peaceful setting. www.quercy-sud-ouest.com/en/welcome

Revel in the beauty of French village life with a tour of three Plus Beaux Villages de France in Gers: Fourcès, Larressingle and Montréal-du-Gers. www.gers-armagnac.com/explorer/incontournables/les-plus-beaux-villages-du-gers

ACTIVITIES

One of the finest ways to explore the countryside is from aboard a boat. Take a dining cruise aboard the lovely wooden gabarre Le Prince Henry from the port at Nérac (www.croisieresduprincehenry.com) or enjoy a self-drive trip along the river aboard a houseboat that requires no licence (www.riverly.com/croisieres/france/sud-ouest).

La Voie Verte (Greenway) de l’Armagnac from Condom to Eauze is a section of former railway line in the Gers department. It winds through the hillsides of Armagnac, offering beautiful and varied landscapes for explorers on foot or two wheels. www.armagnac-dartagnan.com/itineraires/la-voie-verte-de-larmagnac-condom-eauze-a-pied-ou-a-velo

EVENTS

For lovers of jazz in sublime settings, the Albret Jazz Festival, which takes place in the lovely Parc de la Garenne in Nérac from September 11–13, is hard to beat. Among the acts performing are Yuri Buenaventura, Kid Creole and the Coconuts, André Manoukian and Ina Forsman. albret-jazz-festival.com

Mardis So Gascogne (Tuesdays So Gascogne) are delicious and lively farmers’ markets every Tuesday evening during the summer in the same park, featuring live music. www.albret-tourisme.com

To mark the 100th anniversary of Claude Monet’s death, the Musée de Gajac in Villeneuve-sur-Lot is hosting an exhibition of Impressionism, contemporary Japanese painting, a sensory installation, and a living water lily garden on the museum’s terrace. Until November 22. www.ville-villeneuve-sur-lot.fr

Immerse yourself in Gascon culture by attending a Course Landaise in the bullring (or simply tour the bullring with a guide). The sport pits athletes against horned cows and involves zero bloodshed. www.armagnac-dartagnan.com/organisation/sortir/les-courses-landaises.

PRODUCERS

Pay a visit to traditional family farm La ferme au Clair de la Brune in Lauzerte for a tour and pick up superb produce, including notable Quercy cheeses. (www.auclair-delabrune.fr)

BED AND BREAKFAST

Le Jardin d’Elusa

In Eauze, hosts Benoît and Patricia Laurent welcome guests to their elegant maison d’hôtes and gîte. Landscaped gardens, a sparkling pool, massage treatments and Patricia’s excellent cuisine make this a dream home-from-home. www.lejardindelusa.com

La Demeure du Bord’O

This peaceful B&B beside the Canal de Garonne in Lagruère offers stylish rooms, a pool and terrace where meals, including an excellent breakfast, are served. www.lademeuredubordo.com

La Quercynoise

An ideal base for exploring Montaigu-de-Quercy and Quercy Blanc, this secluded guest house offers Family and Lavender suites, sleeping up to six at very reasonable prices. chambredhotes-laquercynoise.com

Les Coteaux Lodges & Expériences

In Laparade in the Lot Valley, these wooden lodges and cabins provide a peaceful retreat, each with magnificent forest views. lescoteaux.fr/en

HOTELS

Le Belvédère

With breathtaking views over the Lauzerte valley, a dreamy infinity pool, excellent restaurant, breakfast buffet and spa treatments, this three-star hotel is the White Lotus

of Tarn-et-Garonne! www.domainedubelvedere.com/en/lebelvedere

Le Moulin de Moissac

After visiting the abbey and cloister, this historic riverside hotel-restaurant provides chic comfort. Thirty-six rooms and serious dining at LE M.1474. www.lemoulindemoissac.com

BOAT RENTALS

Live-aboard boat rentals

Explore the countryside around Nérac aboard a Nicols live-aboard boat, available without a licence in Buzet-sur-Baïse. www.riverly.com/croisieres/france/sud-ouest

EAT & DRINK

La Taverne de D’Artagnan

Overlooking the D’Artagnan statue in Lupiac, this restaurant serves musketeer-themed dishes. The chicken rapière, marinated in Floc de Gascogne and cooked on a sword, is highly recommended. www.aubergelabaquere.com/taverne-dartagnan-lupiac

Loft Café

This locavore bistro in the heart of pretty Eauze (it’s on Place d’Armagnac!) serves hearty traditional southwestern fare and has an Armganac shop.

www.armagnac dartagnan.com/restaurant/loft-cafe

MontResto

Traditional cuisine is on the menu in Montréal-du-Gers, with a focus on fresh, local produce. Try the dessert baba with Armagnac syrup and wines from local vineyards. www.montresto-restaurant-montreal.fr

L’Escadron Volant

Dine in the shadow of Henri IV’s Nérac château, where seasonal cuisine is served with a smile. 7 rue Henri IV, Nérac; Tel: +33 (0)5 53 97 19 04.

facebook.com/LEscadronVolant

Restaurant Clément Artisan Cuisinier

In Plus Beau Village Pujols, chef Clément Papillaud offers a refined menu that changes monthly. Three-course market lunch, €33. clement-artisan-culinaire.fr/restaurant-pujols

L’Accord

Marine runs this restaurant in the tiny village of Lacour, Tarn-et-Garonne, serving regional specialities including foie gras, magret de canard and seven-hour lamb, alongside burgers and salads accord-restaurant.com

Le Kalo

At Sylvain Ducos’ restaurant/traiteur/wine bar in Cazes-Mondenard, the lunch menu changes daily, with local wines. Main course of the day, €12. lekalo.fr

The Uvarium Kiosk

This 1932 octagonal Art Deco guingette, which harks back to when grape ‘cures’ were popular in these parts, is a fun and friendly place to enjoy a great meal by the river in Moissac. 20 avenue de l’uvarium, Moissac; +33 (5) 82 81 90 54.