Catalan Culture in Céret

Nestled near the Spanish border, between the Pyrenees and the Mediterranean, Céret captivates with a thriving Catalan culture.

I am still haunted by our first hike up the imposing Mount Canigou in the eastern Pyrenees some decades ago. The hike itself was memorable, with incredible vistas all around from the majestic summit. But so was the descent from the trail in our little rented car, as we drifted down hairpin turns with a punctured gas tank. All these years later, I am content to admire the magical and mystical Canigou at a distance from the comfort of our apartment in the lively town of Céret.

Today this Pyréneés-Orientales town brings not only sporty hikers, but also art and history lovers to its storied walls. Then there’s Céret’s famous market and delicious Roussillon wines. The streets are lined with magnificent plane trees, now more than 150 years old, casting a warm glow through the dappled light. It is a very special atmosphere.

It was the abundant sunshine and this scintillating light that drew artists like Picasso and friends in 1911. He retained a fondness for the town and returned several times. It was to be the dawn of a new artistic adventure in Céret.

The Catalan language, enjoying a resurgence, mingles comfortably with French on street signs and is widely spoken. The red and yellow-striped Catalan flag sways proudly, and many festivals celebrate Catalan culture, such as sardana dancing and bullfighting.

Our daily stroll takes us from the Place de la Liberté to the 13th-century Porte d’Espagne, one of two grand gateways into the Old Town. Elegant arcades, carved out of the ramparts during the reign of Napoleon, open onto the Place Pablo Picasso with its unique fountain created in tribute to the artist. The modern sculpture depicts water pouring down from the angular Canigou. Placed in the centre is a reproduction of a drawing by Picasso depicting a dove soaring above a group of sardana dancers. Apparently, one day Picasso was sitting at the Grand Café with his friends when they encouraged him to draw a picture evoking peace, and this is the image he improvised on a napkin. We pass the famous Grand Café as we round the corner from Boulevard Jean Jaurès onto the Boulevard Maréchal Joffre, then the Mairie (Town Hall) and the Museum of Modern Art, before arriving at the Porte de France on Place de la République. Picasso was invited by Catalan sculptor Manolo Hugué, who, along with composer Déodat de Séverac and painter Frank Burty Haviland, found inspiration and settled here. More friends followed, such as Georges Braque and Juan Gris, and later, Raoul Dufy, Chaïm Soutine and Marc Chagall.

It’s easy to see why Cubism flourished here, the artists no doubt inspired by vistas of angular terracotta rooftops and dwellings in the town. Plane trees were also an endlessly popular subject. The excellent Museum of Modern Art celebrates their works, many of which were donated by the artists themselves who wished to support this project. Today, Céret remains a hub of artistic activity. Galleries are spread out through the town, with a couple of art openings taking place during our visit.

Artists’ retreat

Maëva Lacombe, art specialist and tour guide with the Vallespir Tourist Office in Céret, points out many examples of street art, enthusiastically explaining how this trending form is linking past and present. We also admire Manolo’s statue of a Catalan woman. At its foot is a different sort of pavement art – a long panel with the names of all the artists connected to Céret since the early 20th century. So far there are 32 names, but there is space for many more. “We are still writing art history,” says Maëva.

One of the names on the list is Henri Matisse, who had alighted at nearby Collioure, then a fishing village, right on the Mediterranean; he and his friend, André Derain, painted hundreds of vibrant Fauvist canvases. We set aside a day to join the throngs of visitors tracing their steps in this oh-so-picturesque seaside town. While meandering through the maze of alleys in Céret’s Old Town, we come across St Peter’s Church, the oldest vestiges of which date back to the 9th century. Today’s structure is a superposition of three additions – a Romanesque tower, Gothic façade and Baroque dome modelled after St Peter’s in Rome. A few steps away, the Place des Neuf Jets is handsomely lined by old plane trees and restaurants, lively in summer. In the centre is a fountain spewing nine water jets and crowned with a lion, created in the 14th century. The fountain was later moved and turned around, so the lion would face north towards France, acknowledging North Catalonia’s annexation to France in the Treaty of the Pyrenees, signed in 1659 and further defined at the Conference of Céret.

Nature’s bounty

Early on Saturday morning, we wake to the sound of the Céret market coming to life, as producers and farmers set up stalls right outside our doors. We join the crowd spilling into the main street which encircles the Old Town to provision ourselves for the week tomatoes, artichokes and fresh figs, cheese and poultry. We even pick out some typical woven Catalan fabric in bold stripes. Céret’s April cherries are the first to ripen in France, thanks to the ideal growing conditions, making this the country’s cerise capital. The first basket of cherries is ceremoniously sent to the President, and in May, the local cherries are celebrated at the Fête de la Cerise, the town’s largest festival, which fills every street corner.

The pleasures of the region also include Côtes du Roussillon wines and the sweeter Banyuls, which is enjoyed as an apéritif or dessert wine. Jonathan Budo, owner of Le Cellier des Arcades, is proud of the long tradition of winemaking. “Our region is magnificent, with our sun, our soil, creating a great variety of wines to suit every palate,” he says. “What I love most is the diversity of the territory.” The variety of soil produces reds ranging from intense and powerful to elegant and aromatic, while some excellent whites are also produced.

Céret is the capital of Vallespir, the valley that essentially follows the Tech River. Dotted through the magnificent countryside are numerous quaint villages, each with its own enticement or historical monument. Near Maureillas-las-Illas is the remarkable Chapelle de Saint-Martin-de-Fenollar, which has well-maintained 12th-century frescoes that Picasso admired. Amélie-les-Bains is a pleasant palm tree-lined spa town, and a designated station verte, meaning it is recognised for its focus on nature and the environment. But we find ourselves much more enticed by Palalda, the perfectly perched village facing it across the Tech. Ten minutes from Amélie-les-Bains is Arles-sur-Tech, home to the oldest Carolingian Abbey in Catalonia. But perhaps the most charming of all the villages is the medieval fortified Catalan village of Prats-de-Mollo, perched precipitously on the side of a mountain, facing south to nearby Spain. After climbing up the winding streets to the lovely 13th-century church, a vigorous hike leads to Fort Lagarde for incredible views in every direction.

The whole region is a hiker’s paradise, and with the excellent €1 bus system, one could easily spend a holiday hiking a different route each day without the need of a car.

Joie de vivre

Three bridges cross the Tech in Céret, all clumped together. The oldest is the Pont du Diable, a stone bridge supposedly built by the devil in one night in 1321. It remains a handsome and sturdy walking bridge, striking with its single arch, from which we catch fantastic views of the Canigou. One sunny Sunday afternoon we luck into a celebration of the sardana, the traditional dance of Catalonia that became popular during the Spanish Civil War. It is considered a dance of unity. An excellent 11-piece Cobla band featuring brass and pungent oboes animates the celebration. Locals, wearing typical laced-up espadrilles, jump up to join hands and dance, the circles getting larger and larger. The mood is joyously festive, everyone smiling and laughing, and it seems to sum up the spirit of Céret and its people, enjoying life. In the distance, the mighty Canigou seems to look down on this convivial celebration approvingly.

CÉRET ESSENTIALS

HOW TO GET THERE

Ryanair flies to Perpignan, 30 minutes’ drive from Céret, April to October. Aer Lingus flies to Perpignan in season from Dublin. Other nearby airports include Carcassonne and Girona, Spain. We flew Air Canada to Barcelona, a two- hour drive to Céret

WHERE TO STAY

• Hôtel Le Cérétan is a budget option in town, open all year, some rooms with mountain view. 7 Rue de la République, Céret.
• Hôtel Vidal near the arcades with just eight rooms and restaurant. Closed in winter. 4 Pl. Soutine, Céret.
• Poppys is a popular B&B owned by a British couple. 7 Pl. Pablo Picasso, Céret.
• Outside of the town, Hôtel le Mas Trilles is a 14th-century building offering accommodation in peaceful surroundings. Pont de Reynes, Céret.
• We booked an apartment through VRBO.
• Collioure Vacations specialises in apartment and house rentals in the region.

WHERE TO EAT

• Atelier de Fred is a local favourite, where Fred personally greets guests warmly, while David sends out elegant dishes from the kitchen. 12 Rue Saint-Férreol, Céret.

• Can Puig (Chez Puig in Catalan) is a cosy restaurant specialising in Spanish tapas, but don’t ignore the daily menus. 47 Rue Saint -Férreol, Céret.

NEARBY

• Restaurant le Sud is a hole-in-the-wall restaurant in Prats-de-Mollo-la-Preste, with elevated homemade regional specialities like Boles de Picolat-meatballs in a sauce with olives and ceps using the best local, seasonal ingredients. Rue Porte d’Espagne 3. Prats-de-Mollo-la-Preste

• L’Escale Bleue in Collioure is a small restaurant with the freshest fish, including local anchovies in their salade de Collioure. The menu changes according to what is in season. 1 Av. Gén de Gaulle, Collioure. www.lescale-bleue.fr

TOURISM CONTACTS

• Vallespir Tourist Office can be found at 5 Rue Saint-Férreol
• Pyrenees-Orientales tourist board: www.tourism-mediterraneanpyrenees.com

From France Today Magazine