Discover how to make the most of 48 hours in Saint-Malo, Brittany, with this expert guide to its historic ramparts, stunning beaches, and must-visit culture spots.

For many, their only sight of Saint Malo would be the fortified ramparts as seen from the ferry as it comes to dock. This small city on the coast of Brittany, with ferry connection to the English south coast, the Channel Islands and a fast train to Paris, is rich in history and maritime heritage. The city was nearly completely destroyed through Allied bombing during WWII and was carefully reconstructed back to its ancient blueprints after. From its Welsh foundation to becoming home to French privateers and pirates, to being home to colonial explorer Jacques Cartier and writer François-René de Chateaubriand, there is a story around every corner. 

Esplanade Saint-Vincent in St Malo ©SMBMSM

On visiting St Malo, those familiar with the book All the Light We Cannot See by Anthony Doerr will recognise the network of narrow cobbled streets and the historical landmarks, and upon closer look, will find the city full of stories and intriguing facts, as well as great Breton cuisine to savour. 

Here’s our guide to really get under the skin of St Malo on your next short break here. 

© SMBMSM

Day 1  

MORNING 

You are likely to have arrived either by ferry or on the train in the morning, which is the best time to watch this beautiful city wake up. Go for an orientation walk along the old town walls, les remparts. This is where you can observe both the surrounding sea and the general layout of the intra-muros, the inner old city, fortified within. There are several access points to the beaches that surround the city. 

The walls of St Malo © SMBMSM

Those who wish to learn more about St Malo and its castle and fortress can book a guided rampart walk through the Tourist Office outside Porte Saint-Vincent gate. The guided walks take you up the ramparts and into the crisscrossing streets of the old town where you can learn about the Welsh origin of Saint Malo (Maclow) whose small statue wedged between buildings can be spotted with a keen eye, how the city was reconstructed after near destruction during WWII, as well as the St Malo’s colonial connection with Quebec in Canada at the Maison du Québec and Musée Jacques Cartier. 

St Malo’s castle © SMBMSM

AFTERNOON 

After the energising walk along the wall, it’s time to savour some Breton flavours. Try the crepes at La Licorne, a bistro style crêperie with an excellent lunch and cider menu with outdoor seating. 

Le Grand Bé © SMBMSM

Depending on tidal times, it may be suitable for a little excursion at low tide, to walk across the stone causeway from Plage de Bon Secours to the tidal island of Ilot du Grand Bé to visit its ancient fort, as well as the tomb of writer François-René de Chateaubriand. With more time, Fort National is also worth visiting, which can be accessed at low tide. 

If you feel like a bit of swim, there is a seawater swimming pool at Plage de Bon Secours that is popular with families with kids. Alternatively, the long stretch of Plage du Sillon outside the city walls has plenty of fine sand and water activities to offer. 

Le Sillon beach ©SMBMSM

EVENING 

Go for an early evening stroll back on the ramparts for brilliant views of the sunset over the sea. Then, it’s time to satisfy the taste buds. St Malo has a good selection of restaurants for an evening meal and a choice of bars, some with live music for light entertainment.  

Day 2 

MORNING 

There is no better morning spent than to browse a local market for the best regional produce. If you are visiting on a Tuesday or Friday, head to Halle au Blé for a selection of seasonal fruits and vegetables, seafood and meats, regional produce, as well as flowers, arts and crafts and nick-nacks for souvenirs.  

The town centre © SMBMSM

The market is also a great place to find some light lunch options for a takeaway or, for a lovely sit-down lazy lunch, try Betton Fils just around the corner for excellent service and a fresh seasonal menu. 

AFTERNOON 

St Malo was a Corsair city with a rich maritime heritage. So, it’s befitting to spend an afternoon seeing it from the water and to explore beyond the city walls where nature is at its best. The River Rance and its valley is known for the diverse estuarial habitat with an ecosystem full of wildlife. Get up close to the tidal islands and into the green surrounds of the river on a sea kayak or, for those looking for a more relaxed way to sightsee, join a cruise and watch the world flow by while listening to stories told by its crew. 

© SMBMSM

For a treat, lunch or dinner cruises is a delicious way to enjoy the views. 

EVENING 

If not already leaving St Malo on a night ferry or train, why not indulge in a spa treatment at St Malo’s original thalassotherapy resort, Les Thermes Marins de Saint-Malo on the Sillon beach, followed by cocktails at the bar while taking in one last sunset over the ocean. 

STAY 

Hôtel des Marins – 3* hotel in the old centre 

EAT 

Betton Fils – a cosy bitro-style restaurant serving hearty dishes and following a sustainable approach to cooking 

La Licorne – a cheerful crêperie & brasserie that makes a point in using organic buckwheat flower and farm-produced milk in ints crepes. 

For more information: www.saint-malo-tourisme.co.uk