In the Drôme, three villages move at their own pace: market mornings, shuttered afternoons, lavender-scented evenings. No must-see list, no rush. Just stone streets, slower meals, and the quiet pleasure of having nowhere else to be.

Southeast France is home to some of the country’s most generous landscapes, encompassed by rugged terrain. The infinite greenery and sweeping views make this French region distinctive, as it sits between the massifs and fields. When journeying through the Drôme, the all-encompassing view stretches upwards, and the winding roads frame Provence, akin to a picturesque postcard. 

After the initial clarification that I’m speaking about Bourdeaux and not the more recognisable Bordeaux in the southwest Aquitaine region, I tend to reel off my affinity for this part of France, so much so that you’d think I was affiliated with the tourism board. The reason for this discovery is my mother-in-law’s relocation to Bourdeaux. Through the years, I’ve grown increasingly familiar with the commune. It’s peaceful and steeped in rich history, yet international tourists seldom frequent it. 

A tranquil visit to The Drôme begins with a stop in Bourdeaux and a discovery of the nearby communes, Saou and Dieulefit. Whether you’re an outdoor sports enthusiast with your sights set on Les Trois Becs, hoping to learn about ceramic production, or prefer café hopping, there’s something for everyone to enjoy whilst taking in the splendour of the Drôme. 

Bourdeaux  

Bourdeaux feels like one of France’s best-kept secrets. Its reported population of 670 inhabitants accounts for its clandestineness, yet the town has a lively presence, particularly during the summer months. 

What to do 

From July onwards, Bourdeaux attracts the local population and those further afield with open-air gigs and festivals, namely the Fête Médiévale on 15^th August – a longstanding medieval festival paying homage to the descendants of Bourdeaux. 

No visit to Bourdeaux is complete without a jaunt through the bustling produce market. The stalls spill onto Vallée du Roubion bridge, a river that runs through the Rhône to the depths of Montélimar.  

The weekly market (open every Thursday, 7 am to 1 pm) brims with seasonal fruit and vegetables, nougat (Montélimar’s speciality), fresh olives from neighbouring Nyons and artisanal Picadon – a punchy goats-milk cheese beloved in the Dieulefit-Bourdeaux region. You can also find handcrafted products, from ceramics and jewellery to handwoven raffia baskets and cosmetics made with vegetable waxes and perfumed with locally sourced essential oils.  

Where to eat 

Magasin Général – 1 Pl. de la Chevalerie, 26460 Bourdeaux 

At the heart of the village lies Magasin Général, an independent bistro canteen, which serves as a sanctuary for locals and visitors alike. The considered menu is refreshed weekly with seasonal produce, and it’s beloved for its kanelbullar (cinnamon brioche), which is baked in-house twice weekly. The bistro’s charm is its ability to foster community by facilitating open-air readings and live music events during the summer, inspiring folks to unwind and connect. 

Magasin Général

Dieulefit 

Renowned for ceramics, Dieulefit is home to 41 pottery and ceramic ateliers, producing both traditional and contemporary creations. Dieulefit’s relationship with craft dates as far back as the Gallo-Roman era, and its pottery was further popularised during the 19^th-century industrial era through to the 20^th century, where earthenware grew in popularity. Dieulefit holds the “Pôle d’Excellence Rurale”, a prestigious accreditation honouring artistic craft and patrimony. You can sense the essence of the artistic legacy once you set foot in town.  

What to do  

Poterie Dieulefit – 10 rue des Reymonds, 26220 Dieulefit 

On arrival, you’re met by Poterie Dieulefit, Dieulefit’s famed 50-year-old ceramic boutique and the oldest pottery workshop in town. Poterie Dieulefit is amongst the town’s most celebrated, offering functional items awash with distinctive colourways spanning emerald to straw yellow.  

Poterie Dieulefit

Sauts et gambades – 38 rue du Bourg, 26220 Dieulefit 

If you’re fond of bookshops, look to Sauts et gambades—a charming establishment with equally affable booksellers. The storefront opens to an enchanting terrace out back, which offers a much-welcome pause after a day spent discovering. As its good-humoured name would suggest, Saut et Gambades (which translates to jump and frolic) has a substantial archive of comics. The bookstore centres curiosity and wonder through narratives and interactive play, for personal development and connection. 

Where to eat 

Corazón Café – 10 rue Justin Jouve, 26220 Dieulefit 

This speciality café is conveniently located in one of Dieulefit’s animated lanes. It offers a cosy ambience and an extensive menu comprising everything from homemade cakes to locally procured ice cream and vibrant lunch dishes with Asian influence. 

Saou 

The charm of Saou is its miniature establishments, which transform from places of residence to workshop venues. The main village starts from the intersection of Route de Crest, and it’s decorated with charming ateliers (including Ross Naigeon’s Tournage sur Bois), live music venues, épiceries and quaint bed and breakfast establishments.  

Saou River view

What to do 

Hike Les Trois Becs 

Given its proximity to Les Trois Becs, a rare geological formation atop the Forêt de Saou, Saou has proven popular for outdoor enthusiasts, from rock climbers to avid hikers, who often choose to camp on nearby ground. Les Trois Becs offers a breathtaking panoramic view of the Drôme, at an altitude of 1550 meters, and it stands 1589 meters tall from Le Veyou, the highest peak. I’d recommend making a day trip of it and taking in the panoramic view with a picnic at the summit. 

View from Les Trois Becs

What to do 

Lavender fields – 8 Travers, 26400 Saou 

The South of France is beloved for its buoyant lavender fields that flourish from May to early August, yet they quickly become crowded. The Drôme is decorated with plenty of fields, and this particular lavender field is nestled if you’re searching for something discreet.  

Saou lavender field

Where to eat 

Gasoline Palace – 10 bis route de Bourdeaux, Saou, France, 26400 

This vibrant wine lounge and pizzeria is in the centre of Saou, and it welcomes an eclectic crowd of music and comedy devotees. The atmosphere is exceptionally warm, and I can attest to the exceptional pizza.