Where to Stay and Eat in La Manche

First published: March 7, 2019 by Rachel Ifans

A selection of quality hotels and restaurants across the département

HOTELS

Hôtel des Bains, Granville

The hotel sits right on the seafront, next to the casino, and even though it’s not a beautiful building it makes any ideal base for exploring. Well-appointed but not at all fancy. www.hoteldesbains-granville.com

Hôtel-Restaurant Les Ormes, Barneville-Carteret

Part of the Relais du Silence collection, this small hotel gets everything right. The décor is not flashy but it is smart, cool and of good quality, and the service is the same. Stay in the main house or the building to the side, which has rooms in the rafters. www.hotel-restaurant-les-ormes.fr

Hôtel de France, Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue

This hotel has a real old-style French feel. From reception you are led to your room – will it be up the rickety stairs or through a long and leafy courtyard garden? The hotel has been in the Brix family for generations and manages to maintain a keen sense of the past without getting left behind. www.france-fuchsias.com

Hôtel Les Ormes

Hôtel du Fort et des Îles, Chausey

A real slice of end-of-the-world paradise, it’s still owned by the family of founder and master mariner Lucien Ernouf. Established in 1928 it has eight rooms, four of which have sea views. It is simple and welcoming – the luxury comes from being able to stay in such a remarkable, remote location. Book well in advance. www.hotel-chausey.com

Hôtel 13 Arches, Portbail

This well-priced and well-placed hotel and restaurant right by the water in Portbail is the perfect place to stay while you explore the area. www.13arches.com

RESTAURANTS

La Mère Poulard, Mont-Saint-Michel

La Mère Poulard has welcomed stars and heads of state for decades – the photos on the walls have signed pictures from clients as diverse as Maggie Thatcher and Rita Hayworth. The rhythm of life beats loudly here as the omelette chefs whisk the oeufs noisily and the chatter of tourists surrounds you. The speciality omelette is made from eggs whisked to an airy froth, then cooked in the wood fire and served with cured meat, potatoes or vegetables. www.lamerepoulard.com

La Mère Poulard is the place to go for omelettes after a trip to Mont-Saint-Michel. Photo: SB/ CDT 50

Le Cabestan, Granville

One of several fish restaurants lining the port, it is especially popular with locals. Sit outside or in and savour fish of the day or a shellfish or two. Like elsewhere in La Manche, you’re never surprised to see a huge lobster turn up on the table next to yours. www.restaurant-lecabestan.fr

Le Comptoir d’Atelier, Granville

Slightly out of town, and off the tourist road, this place is a firm favourite with locals.You have to book ahead and weekday lunches are very busy. Highly recommended for inspired local food. www.manchetourisme.com

La Passerelle, Bricqueville-sur-Mer

There’s not much choice down here by the lowlands and sea of Le Havre de la Vanlée, but that doesn’t mean the food suffers. La Passerelle cooks great traditional food from local produce. www.restaurant-la-passerelle.fr

Les Ormes, Barneville-Carteret

Les Ormes is mentioned here in the hotels section, but the restaurant is worth its own listing. It’s pretty busy with locals and guests and the food is modern and inventive.You can dine in the front garden or in the light and summery dining room. www.hotel-restaurant-les-ormes.fr

Le Comptoir d’Atelier at Granville is very popular with the locals

Café du Port, Omonville-la-Rogue

It used to warm the cockles of fishermen returning to port, but now this gem of a place, whose plain exterior belies the cuisine served, warms the hearts of anyone who comes to the port. French seafood classics are served up with apparent ease – lobster platters, bouillabaisse, and always the fish of the day. www.restaurantduport-omonvillelarogue.fr

Les Fuchsias, Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue

The restaurant of the Hôtel de France (also previously mentioned) is set in a conservatory-style dining room with vines growing up over your head and wall-to-wall murals. The room is buzzing with attentive staff who exude the charm of old-school French restaurants, yet the cooking is always modern and often surprising. www.france-fuchsias.com

Le Quai des Mers, Cherbourg

Within the wonderful Art Deco walls of the erstwhile cruise terminal, this classic French bistro-style restaurant is well worth a stop, whether you’re exploring the Cité de la Mer or not. Local produce and expert cooking. www.lequaidesmers.fr

From France Today magazine