What should you expect from a hotel barge cruise on the waterways of France? We head to Burgundy to find out.

All photographs by Steve Turnbull 

Did you know that France has nearly 1,000 miles of navigable waterways? This means you’re spoilt for choice when it comes to cruising them. But what is the experience actually like? I had the opportunity to find out for myself recently when I did a photo shoot for Chicago-based company, Barge Lady Cruises, on La Vie En Rose.  

The boat, a converted Dutch cargo barge, is one of 46 vessels in the company’s portfolio. These vary in size and level of luxury, but they’re all classed as high-end hotel barges. The majority are independently owned too and, as you’d expect, driven by captains with the necessary credentials. 

Currently, La Vie En Rose is chartered for the canals and rivers of Southern Burgundy. If this area doesn’t appeal or you’ve done it before, Barge Lady can offer Northern Burgundy, the Upper Loire, Alsace-Lorraine, Gascony, Bordeaux, Champagne, Provence and the Canal du Midi

Barge cruises vs river cruises 

So what’s the difference between barge and river cruises? As Barge Lady ‘marketing maven’ Stephanie Sack explains, ‘Compared to river cruising, which we also offer, barge guests have the pleasure of meeting and interacting with everyone, including the crew. Within the first hour, the crew knows everyone on a first name basis, and will even know your signature drink by the end of the first night.’ In other words, barge cruising suits those looking for a more intimate experience as part of a smaller group of guests. In fact, in common with most hotel barges in France, the boats accommodate 2-20 people but with most it’s less than a dozen. 

Of course Barge Lady have their own ‘Go beyond the boat’ branding, but there are several other features of their service that you can expect to find elsewhere, notably: 

• all meals provided including breakfast, lunch and dinner  

• open bar 

• escorted/guided sightseeing and wine tasting excursions 

• daily maid service 

• English-speaking captain and crew 

Compared to river cruises, barge hotels also provide more of a ‘gourmet’ service for their guests, including those with special diets like vegetarian and vegan. Barge Lady just asks you to complete a form beforehand so chefs can do their best to meet your requirements. Regardless, the emphasis is always on fresh, seasonal produce which is organic where possible and often bought from local markets. 

Furthermore, barge cruising is a comparatively eco-friendly way to take a holiday in France. Barges typically run on diesel engines but consume much less fuel than aeroplanes or large cruise ships due to their slower speeds and smaller size. As Stephanie adds, ‘I am delighted to report a small but growing number of barges have solar panels as well and a few of them do or will run on vegetable oil. Of course, the majority of the vessels themselves being saved from the scrap heap or being scuttled is the ultimate in preservation and upcycling!’. 

What’s not included: 

• air or other transportation  

• travel insurance 

• optional and discretionary crew gratuity 

When to cruise? 

It’s worth noting that the season runs from April to October, and the barges are not wheelchair accessible. Serious medical conditions could be an issue too (check the small print beforehand and do make enquiries if you’re not sure). 

How much does it cost? 

A 6 night/7 day cruise (normally Sunday-Saturday) on a ‘charming’ category barge like La Vie En Rose costs over $5k per person compared to $3k+ for 7-21 nights with river cruises. But if you’re looking for a once-in-a-lifetime holiday experience, a barge cruise like this could well tick all your boxes. In fact, many of Barge Lady’s clients have enjoyed the experience so much they’ve booked several times. If you want to push the boat out even more, there are 3 higher tiers of luxury to choose from: Premier, Deluxe and Ultra-Deluxe. You also have the option of private hire instead of individual cabin, which is perfect for groups of family and friends. 

But enough of the preamble, on with the (3 night/2 day) mini-cruise! 

Day 1 – Boarding  

We alight from our chauffeured mini-bus and trundle over to the barge. My immediate impression, as I clamber down the steps in the lounge following a warm welcome from the crew, is ‘très cozy and comfortable’. I also notice the distinctive decor that blends ‘traditional barge’ (wooden panels, brass fittings etc.) with a touch of nostalgia (numerous photos of French/American showbiz stars).  

I like the soft lighting/furnishing too which makes me feel instantly at home, same with the ‘Welcome Onboard!’ message in the galley. This divides between a kitchen and dining area, enabling our super-friendly chef Sylvain to chat informally with us as he performs his magic with the food (more on that in a moment). 

Later I retire to my cabin and, helped by a Cognac nightcap, drift off into a deep slumber. 

Day 2 – Wine Tasting 

We start the day in the perfect way with a generous buffet breakfast that includes fresh croissants and pastries from the local boulangerie, and eggs cooked to order. 

Next, our charming captain Alex gets behind the wheel and we set off down the canal (there are 12 locks to come!). The little child in me couldn’t be more excited, but the adult takes charge as I start taking photos. Being mid-October, it’s overcast and misty, but very atmospheric.  

The engine makes barely a purr as we glide along at the maximum permitted speed of 4 miles per hour (current depending). You could walk – and certainly bike (there are several provided) – down the towpath faster! But who cares about ‘vitesse’, this is all about slow tourism. A cluster of creamy-white (Charolais) cows appears from the fog on one bank, a heron darts across the other, but doesn’t escape my camera. 

After an excellent lunch in a local restaurant, we head to Domaine Meix Foulot for some wine tasting (barges generally follow a cruise in the morning/excursion in the afternoon format). The surrounding vineyards, burnished in red and gold, couldn’t be more picturesque and our host, Agnès Dewé de Launay, more engaging about her wines. Unfortunately, I’m too busy taking photos to do much sniffing, swirling and sipping, but I can see that everyone else is having a splendid time. 

Back at the barge, as the sun melts below the horizon, captain Alex uncorks a bottle of champagne with his ceremonial sword and we enjoy an apéro plus canapés. The day ends with another wonderful meal and a very interesting conversation around the table as we reflect on the trip so far (and share stories from our own life journeys). 

Day 3 – Market Visit 

We’re blessed with more autumn sunshine late morning as the boat moors at Chalon-sur-Saône and we head to the market. Everywhere I look there are photo opportunities including the characterful cathedral, cute timbered houses, and vendors at the market selling artisanal produce. Later, I find time for a quick tour of the Musée Nicéphore Niépece, a fascinating photography museum that feels like my spiritual home. 

What can I say about the scallop and prawn risotto we had for lunch except that I ate it in reverential silence, savouring every mouthful. Did every meal from Sylvain meet this mark? Absolument! 

Day 4 – Departure 

On the Barge Lady website it says, ’Guests often disembark feeling as if they are saying goodbye to dear friends.’ That sums up my feelings about the boat and crew perfectly as we head our separate ways in the morning. If I had to choose my favourite moment it would be when captain Alex serenaded us with Louis Armstrong’s version of a French classic. Which one? La Vie En Rose of course.