From Stone to Story: How France’s Historic Monuments Are Being Reimagined

More than mere guardians of France’s history, the Centre des monuments nationaux ensures that the sites it cares for are also vibrant spaces where heritage, culture and innovation thrive…

Across France, the country’s historic landmarks aren’t simply preserved, they’re reimagined. From ancient abbeys-turned-performance venues to castles hosting art installations and immersive storytelling, the Centre des monuments nationaux (CMN) has transformed how visitors experience the past.

Created in 1914, the CMN is a state-funded organisation in charge of the upkeep and public opening of more than 100 historical sites and monuments across France. Its mission goes beyond the maintenance of the old stones that have witnessed millennia of French history, however. It creates and curates a dynamic calendar of events and exhibitions housed in these sites – so these historic hallways can not only serve a purpose once more but they can also ring again with the sounds of laughter and curiosity.

INNOVATION IN A GOTHIC MARVEL

Following extensive renovation works, the Basilica of Saint-Denis in Paris has regained its iconic silhouette. The latest parts to be reconstructed are the tower and spire, while a new exhibition pathway creates a more immersive experience for visitors, with animated movies, touch screens, tablets and tactile elements for the visually impaired.

The experience is further enriched by the La Fabrique visitor centre, which offers an exceptional behind-the-scenes view of the reconstruction and the architectural challenges it presented. Visitors can watch the stone masons lay the carved stones live on a screen or ask the blacksmiths about their trade. Alongside documentary films and a permanent exhibition, La Fabrique also has a virtual reality room in which visitors can walk in the shoes of a medieval builder.

Located on the outskirts of Paris, the Saint-Denis Basilica is a marvel of Gothic architecture dubbed as the first of its kind. It also doubles as a necropolis, housing the remains of some of France’s greatest queens and kings, as well as princesses, princes and some members of the court. It also presents Europe’s largest funerary sculpture collection with some 70 sculpted tombs and recumbent effigies.

LIFE OF THE LAST KING OF FRANCE

An exceptional exhibition traces the life of the young Count of Artois, brother of Louis XVI and the last French king (upon his coronation, he was known as Charles X). Held in the Château de Maisons, which he bought in 1777, the exhibition focuses on the early life of the Count of Artois, from his birth to his exile in 1789. His personality, life, patronage and taste are explored through a selection of masterpieces many of which are on loan from the Palace of Versailles – including paintings, objets d’art, sculptures, furniture, curiosities and books.

The Count loved horses and hunting, but he was also interested in science and was an avid reader. He was particularly interested in paintings depicting contemporary history but also took part in major construction projects. He was the one, for instance, who ordered the construction of the château and gardens of Bagatelle. Le Comte d’Artois, Prince et Mécène, Until March 2.

A CHRISTMAS CASTLE

Every year, a selection of Loire Valley châteaux put on their finest festive attire and welcome young and old alike to fairy-tale end-of-year celebrations. At Azay-le-Rideau, visitors are invited to step into the world of classic childhood stories and stroll through beautiful decors, from sparkling, iced dining tables, heaving under the weight of a magical feast, to winter wonderlands hidden behind the doors of a wardrobe…

The Centre des monuments nationaux has partnered with some of France’s most talented artisans to create these life-like fairy-tale sets this winter, featuring iconic ceramic earthenware from the Gien manufacture and silk from Maison Roze. A special themed nocturnal tour takes place on December 13, while guided tours bring visitors behind the scenes of the sumptuous decors, plus a storytelling family tour is also available.

The 16th-century castle, which appears to float on water, is the perfect setting to delve into one’s imagination and step right into a different world. Built under the patronage of King François I, it sits atop a little island in the Indre river. Its remarkable architecture, blending French and Italian styles, make it a jewel of the first French Renaissance wave. Don’t miss the special staircase, clearly Italian-inspired and one of the oldest of its kind, set in the centre of the main living quarters. While you’re in the area, check out the five other Loire châteaux celebrating the wonders of Christmas with special themed visits. Noël au Pays des Châteaux, Until January 4

The Cité internationale de la langue française, housed in the magnificent Château de Villers-Cotterêts some 80km northeast of Paris, opened to the public in 2023 following an impressive restoration campaign championed by President Emmanuel Macron. While the Cité is a marvel in itself and the castle has a fascinating history involving several French kings, its exhibitions highlighting the intricacies and evolution of the French language make it a unique site in France’s cultural landscape.

The second temporary exhibition to grace these historic walls is shining the light on manuscripts that bear witness to changes in the French language throughout history. Collaborating with the Bibliothèque Nationale de France which houses a copy of every single book ever published in the country the Centre des monuments nationaux has collected 100 exceptional manuscripts that have served as both medium and witness to the transformations of the French language, all the way from the 12th century right up to contemporary works.

The exhibition highlights not only the content of these texts but how the choice of paper, ink, colour, decoration and illumination make these manuscripts living memories of language and its uses and interpretations. The treasures on show from the Bibliothèque nationale de France reveal the writing secrets of some of France’s most celebrated authors across the centuries, whose works everyone has, at some point, studied in class, selected from the family bookshelf, or borrowed from the library. Original works from authors such as Champollion, Proust, Veil, Casanova and the Marquise de Sévigné are on display, and readings, songs and performances are available to listen to throughout the exhibition.
Trésors et secrets d’écriture, Until March 1

BEDECKED POWER

Mystery and a fascination that goes beyond monetary value shroud royal jewels. There was a time when these diamond- and pearl-adorned tiaras, necklaces, bracelets, earrings and crowns conveyed more than wealth: they were clear signs of power. But more than that, they were also carriers of seemingly more mundane matters: affection, messages, royal favours and, of course, passion. This last aspect is what is highlighted in the exhibition opening on December 10 at the Al Thani Collection at the Hôtel de la Marine in Paris.

The third in a trilogy of exhibitions held in collaboration with London’s Victoria, ‘Joyaux Dynastiques’ brings together important and historic jewels from the collections of both the V&A and the Al Thani Collection.

Visitors can gaze upon extremely rare pieces carrying legendary gemstones that belonged to Catherine II of Russia, Joséphine, Marie-Louise of Austria, Eugénie and Queen Victoria, spanning just over two centuries of royal history in Europe.

But beyond the sparkles, it is the true language of the courts, their hidden or on the contrary -very public intrigues that visitors will be able to appreciate and attempt to understand thanks to this exceptional exhibition. Held in the grandiose Hôtel de la Marine, the royal storehouse for furniture belonging to the French Crown, the exhibition has benefited from loans from the heritage collections of luxury French jewellery houses Cartier, Chaumet, Mellerio et Van Cleef & Arpels, promising a dazzling show of jewels. Joyaux dynastiques, December 10-April 6.

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