Contemporary Art is Bubbling 30 Metres Below Ground at Domaine Vranken Pommery  

There’s more than sparkling wines in the mystical Champagne house cellars – contemporary art is making its way into prestigious wine estates.

With every pop of a brut champagne cork, a toast should be made to Jeanne Alexandrine Louise Mélin Pommery. Madame Pommery is responsible for creating the first successful “brut” – the Pommery Nature 1874 – breaking from the traditional sweet wines. ​Upon her husband’s death in 1858, this savvy businesswoman set out to make her mark, both in France and beyond. A trailblazer in the champagne world, Madame Pommery is also the mastermind behind transforming chalk pits into cellars, creating 18km of galleries. A glance towards the barrel-vaulted ceilings of the nearly 60 chalk pits, reveals the names of great cities as each was conquered. This “project of the century,” coupled with the quality of her wines, gave Pommery a sparkling spot on the champagne map.

But today, these cellars harbour more than sparkling wine. Gliding down the monumental 116-step staircase at Domaine Vranken Pommery, illuminated by a rainbow of colors, invites one into a world of wonder. Thirty meters underground, Gustave Navlet’s larger-than-life tableaux are sculpted into the chalk of the crayères. These bas-reliefs (some measuring 15 meters long and 6 meters high) illustrate Bacchanalian celebrations and rituals and are cleverly carved within spaces offering the best acoustics. One masterpiece to look out for is Fête de Bacchus. This allegory of the five senses was crafted in 1883.

Since 2002, Nathalie and Paul-François Vranken, owners of Domaine Vranken Pommery, have continued this tradition of art in the cellars, with over 500 emerging and established artists from around the world displayed in meticulously curated exhibitions. The latest theme marking the 18th expo and the first one incorporating sound, ‘Melodies en sous-sol,’ takes the visitor on a thoughtful, light, and poetic journey through the Gallo-Roman cellars. Conceived as a sound and visual score, walking along the kilometre of cellars, the notes and images perfectly complement the art.

The underground art tour begins with an installation of woven ceramics, live plants, and videos by Anina Major titled The Landing. This artist’s soulful migration story from the Bahamas to the United States is told through different makeshift markets. A few meters away, French street artist Encoreunestp’s installation of kaleidoscopic floating butterflies (Avoir des papillons dans le ventre) is inspired by the expression, “having butterflies in your tummy”. Accompanied by soft music, it’s impossible not to feel like you’re floating along with the butterflies.

Meanwhile, a colossal video of an out-of-scale owl by Bertrand Gadenne summons a sense of wonder. Gadenne once explained, “We look at animals with an imaginary and symbolic investment. Humanity cannot exist without animality, and it remains the matrix of our dreams, future, and metamorphosis.” Specific installations by the 33 exhibiting artists are adapted to the Pommery cellars. South Korean-born artist Nam Tchun Mo mesmerizingly punctuates an elevated cave with the shapes of hashtags, titled Spring. Constant throughout the exhibit is a state of awe, both at the impressive works on display and by the endless thoughts they evoke.

Installations are also omnipresent in the English-inspired garden, where guests are greeted by a massive watering can envisioned by Lilian Bourgeat. It’s impossible to miss the giant (Maxitos) with vegetable heads, born from the imagination of Jean-François Fourtou. Triple Michelin-starred, vegetable-obsessed chef Alain Passard’s giant kitchen whisk is among the other whimsical surprises, inviting one to descend into the caves.

Following a champagne tasting, museum visit and lunch in the Domaine’s restaurant, peek into a 20th-century architectural gem blending Art Nouveau with Art Deco at neighboring Villa Demoiselle—further proof of the dedication to art and craftsmanship begun by Madame Pommery and continued by Nathalie and Paul-François Vranken.

‘Melodies en sous-sol’ exhibition runs until September 20th 2025.