French Restaurant Review: La Briqueterie, Vinay

The lovely old La Briqueterie, a five-star hotel not far from Épernay which first opened its doors in 1973, has an outstanding new chef who is making it one of the most exciting tables in the Champagne region.

Originally from Morocco, Nawal Rezagui trained as a software engineer before returning to her first love of cooking, and has worked in Germany and various French kitchens before taking on this latest post. Her ambition is “to captivate the taste buds and hearts of […] guests through a ballet of emotions, transforming each meal into an extraordinary gustatory voyage”.

A recent lunch here was highly memorable for Rezagui’s signature acidulated flavours and creative mastery of herbs and spices. Foie gras with white pepper, vanilla, quince and smoked tuna was a beautifully balanced and inventive dish, as was a sylvan cameo of seasonal mushrooms in a light cream with watercress, chestnuts and pickles. Rezagui is a notably gifted fish cook, too, as seen in her John Dory with kimchi, green apple, and a yuzu-brightened butter sauce. Meanwhile, her slow-cooked lamb shoulder with roasted leeks and candied lemons was stunning. With excellent service and a superb wine list, this dining room is popular with the local wine trade, so be sure to book.

La Briqueterie, 4 Route de Sézanne, Vinay.

Tel. (33) 03 26 59 99 99

Average à la carte €120.

From France Today Magazine