French Restaurant Review: La Table De Pierre Reboul

Like too many other French cities, Aix-en-Provence is growing on its edges in a helter-skelter way that has more to do with commercial exigencies than traditional French urbanism. The architecture in these new quartiers is generally modern and mediocre, a style that would rightly provoke the scorn of King Charles.

Heading to beautiful Aix for a concert and some shopping a few weeks ago, we ended up staying in a Renaissance hotel on the edge of town, because it had good rates and onsite parking (parking in Aix is never easy and often expensive). After checking in, our room turned out to be much nicer than I expected, with a fine view of the Montagne Sainte-Victoire growing increasingly roseate at the end of the day.

The first thing I did upstairs was to call a local friend, who was away in Berlin on business, for a restaurant recommendation (yes, restaurant writers need them too). He told me that I should hang up immediately and see if there might still be a reservation open at La Table de Pierre Reboul, a Michelin-starred restaurant within a hotel, which he described as serving “elegant contemporary French cooking with a Provençal accent”. I immediately loved the idea of not having to drive to or from dinner, and was thrilled when I snagged the last available spot for that evening.

This intimate restaurant with a modern, supper club interior and an open kitchen turned out to be a delightful surprise as we made our way through an intriguing four-course tasting menu that began with a seaweed panna cotta topped with mullet tartare, a subtle and satisfying ode to the oceans. The waiter thoughtfully inserted an extra course, since we’d been hoping for the frog’s legs with lovage, purple garlic cream and local spinach; he kindly served each of us a pair and they were lean, herbaceous and succulent, a brilliant dish.

Roasted pigeon in beet jus was wild and earthy, but light and surprisingly delicate. Chestnut ice cream with clementines and almonds concluded this excellent meal, which was much enhanced by excellent service and a superb local white wine, Domaine de Camaïssette Cuvée Amadeus 2017.

La Table de Pierre Reboul, Renaissance Hotel, Avenue Amadeus Mozart, Aix-en-Provence.

Tel. +33 04 86 91 53 53, www.latabledepierrereboul.com

Prix-fixe menu €75, €125, €175. Average à la carte €185.

From France Today Magazine

Lead photo credit : ©umawi