Comme à Savonnières

Though the relentless gentrification of Saint Germain des Prés means that fewer and fewer real Parisians can afford to live in the storied quartier, it remains understandably popular with visitors. But when it comes to food, the long-trendy neighborhood seems besotted with pasta and sushi, and finding good, affordable French food is a tough call. That’s why I love Comme à Savonnières, a terrific little bistrot tucked just off the rue Princesse, locally known for its concentration of bars and pubs. While many restaurants in the area are either tourist traps or noisy hangouts for the young and bibulous in search of alimentary ballast, this warm, friendly place is popular with locals of all ages and serves a fine menu of traditional French dishes and lighter contemporary ones. Dining here not long ago with visiting friends, we enjoyed glasses of an excellent dry Vouvray, served with radishes and thickly sliced sausage, and then tucked into coddled eggs with Roquefort and “la terrine de mon père,” an excellent country pâté. Next, chestnut-puree-filled ravioli, a first-rate blanquette de veau, and nicely cooked monkfish with baby vegetables, all made from top-quality ingredients and generously served. Service is prompt and charming, and the restaurant’s owner Valentin Roulière is from the Loire Valley, which explains the terrific Loire wines on the list. All told, an ideal choice for a good, reasonably priced meal in Saint Germain.

18 rue Guisarde, 6th, 01.43.29.52.18. €35 per person, without wine.

View Larger Map

Alexander Lobrano’s book Hungry for Paris is published by Random House. Find Hungry for Paris and more in our bookstore.

For all our restaurant reviews see here.