Restaurant Review: Cèna in Paris

Restaurant Review: Cèna in Paris

David Lahner is one of the most innovative restaurateurs in Paris today, with a flock of stylish addresses in different neighbourhoods that suit different clienteles and culinary desires. These include La Crèmerie, Le Bon Saint Pourçain, Anima, Racines, Caffè Stern, Vivant and now Cèna (the word means ‘dinner’ or ‘supper’ in Italian).

Located in an office district in the heart of the city in the 8th arrondissement, just a couple of minutes’ walk from the Musée Jacquemart-André, it fills a void in a part of Paris which is decidely top heavy with Michelin-starred restaurants and sandwich shops but which had previously offered rather little by way of the kind of healthy and inventive modern bistro cooking that has become the delicious signature of contemporary dining in Paris.

chef Alban Chartron

Chef Alban Chartron © Mr Tripper

The eclectic menu evolves regularly and runs to dishes such as Roman-style deep-fried artichokes with arugula, guanciale and socca (chickpea-flour crêpe) curry; yellow pollack with tenderly roasted asparagus; and a rich chocolate mousse tempered with smoked black cardamom.

These off-beat dishes reflect the gastronomic wit and impressive resumé of young chef Alban Chartron, who worked at La Villa Florentine in Lyon, Le Louis XV in Monaco, Anne-Sophie Pic in Valence, and at Épicure at the Hôtel Bristol in Paris before taking over the kitchen here. Booking is essential, since this place is very popular, especially at lunchtime.

Its calm and stylish interior

The restaurant’s calm and stylish interior in Paris’s 8th arrondissement © Mr Tripper

23 Rue Treilhard, 8th Arrondissement, Paris
Tel. (33) 01 40 74 20 80,
Average €60.

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From France Today Magazine

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Alexander Lobrano grew up in Connecticut, and lived in Boston, New York and London before moving to Paris, his home today, in 1986. He was European Correspondent for Gourmet magazine from 1999 until its closing, and has written about food and travel for Saveur, Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, the New York Times, Wall Street Journal, Guardian, Travel & Leisure, Departures, Conde Nast Traveler, and many other publications in the United States and the United Kingdom. He is the author of HUNGRY FOR PARIS, 2nd Edition (Random House, 4/2014), HUNGRY FOR FRANCE (Rizzoli, 4/2014), and MY PLACE AT THE TABLE, newly published in June 2021.

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