10 Reasons to Visit Le Havre-Étretat
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Le Havre is considered one of the most significant achievements of the 20th century, a shining example of the urban planning expertise of 1950s Europe, and as such is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is also the birthplace of Impressionism, for it is here that Claude Monet painted his seminal Impression soleil levant and, of course, the port city prides itself on its vibrant mix of commerce, cruising and cultural activities.
1. Exceptional 20th-century architecture
Having been severely bombed during the Second World War, the centre of Le Havre was rebuilt between 1945 and 1964 by a team of architects and town planners led by the visionary architect Auguste Perret, who pioneered the use of concrete. But before you go exploring, visit the authentically furnished show apartment to learn about Perret’s architecture and his plan to rehouse the people left homeless by the war. The post-war economic boom is brought to life through everyday objects such as refrigerators, gas stoves, pressure cookers, radios, typewriters, clothes and magazines, plunging the visitor into the heart of the 1950s. Guided tours are available on weekdays and weekends. www.lehavreseine-patrimoine.fr
2. Cultural centre
Head to Le Volcan, the city’s landmark theatre, library and café-bar, which was refurbished in 2015, on Place Oscar Niemeyer, named after the architect who designed the building in 1982. Le Volcan’s curves provide a pleasing contrast with Perret’s angular style, and the library, which is accessible to all, will surprise visitors with its architecture, unique furniture and the richness of its collections. As for the theatre, it easily rivals the best Parisian venues.
3. Famous thoroughfare
No visit to the city is complete without a stroll along Avenue Foch, ‘the Champs-Elysées of Le Havre’. This majestic thoroughfare connects the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville to the beach and is lined by housing blocks, known as îlots, in the Perret style and decorated with bas-reliefs honouring the architects, scientists, industrialists and writers who have contributed to the life of Le Havre. Be sure to pass through la Porte Océane (Ocean Gate), consisting of two 13-storey towers created by Perret to form a gateway between the city and the beach.
4. Landmark church
St Joseph’s Church is a must for any architecture enthusiast. Designed by Perret, ‘the grace of concrete, the beauty of glass and the elevation of spirit’ combine in this 20th-century masterpiece, whose 107m tall lantern tower acts as a beacon when lit up at night, visible out to sea. It is known affectionately as the ‘lantern tower’ or the ‘lighthouse at the heart of the city’. Inside the church, the concrete is illuminated by 12,768 stained glasses by Marguerite Huré.
5. The cradle of Impressionism
At the MuMa (Museum of Modern Art André Malraux), opposite the mouth of the port, discover the world of Impressionism, with works by Boudin, Monet, Renoir, Degas, Pissarro and Sisley, as well as pieces by famous Fauvists such as Van Dongen, Dufy, Friesz, Derain and Marquet. This exceptional glass and steel building has become a must-see for any lover of French art from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, containing the second largest Impressionist collection in France. Art fans will also want to explore the artworks dotted around the city’s streets. Every year since 2017, artists have taken over the city to showcase their art in public spaces; some are temporary and others have become permanent, creating an impressive open-air collection.
6. A rich maritime history
Immerse yourself in history at the Maison de l’Armateur, an 18th-century ship owner’s mansion and an emblem of Le Havre’s rich, seafaring history. The rooms are organised on five levels around an astonishing skylight. Some showcase the city of yesteryear and its port activity – the coffee, cotton and cocoa trades. Others are the apartments, the library and the cabinet of curiosities typical of a rich merchant from Le Havre. Not far away, the exhibition areas of the Hôtel Dubocage de Bléville (a 17th-century mansion) will allow you to better understand the city through its history and the way it has developed over the centuries. The collections here recall the highlights, notable buildings and illustrious characters that have made Le Havre shine.
7. Historic cathedral
Notre-Dame Cathedral, built between the late 16th century and the mid 17th century, mixes different architectural styles, including flamboyant Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and classical. It is the oldest of the buildings in the city centre which survived the devastation of the Second World War.
8. The Hanging Gardens
Marvel at the greenhouses of the Hanging Gardens, created in a former military fort from the mid-19th century. This astonishing place was designed in homage to the botanist explorers who sailed from Le Havre in the 17th and 18th centuries. From here you can enjoy an exceptional panorama of the bay and the estuary.
9. Take a sea voyage
Board one of the Baie de Seine speedboats to explore the port of Le Havre, meet the largest container ships in service and experience the spirit of travel up close. Enjoy an apéro at sea or choose a day trip to one of the many nearby sights of interest, such as Pegasus Bridge.
10. The charms of Sainte-Adresse
Walk along the seafront to the neighbourhood of Sainte-Adresse and discover the story of businessman Georges Dufayel whose ambition was to create a paradisical seaside resort, the Nice of Le Havre. Admire the villas and spot the telltale signs of the Belgian presence between 1914 and 1918. Look out too for the Notre-Dame-des-Flots chapel, which is dedicated to those lost at sea, and the pearly white Sugar Loaf (Pain de Sucre), a monument built in memory of Count Charles Lefebvre-Desnouettes, an empire general who died when his ship disappeared off the coast of Ireland.
Lead photo credit : © Olivier Ortelpa/Flickr
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