2 Days in Perpignan, Pyrénées-Orientales
Explore Perpignan in 48 hours—discover Catalan charm, vibrant markets, medieval landmarks, and sun-drenched terraces in this colourful southern French city near the Med and Pyrenees.
Traveling off the beaten path to discover this small city brimming with history and French and Catalan culture will be well worth your time. Located in the Occitanie region near Barcelona and the Spanish border with views of the Pyrénées, Perpignan has medieval history, French, Catalan, and North African cuisines, colorful, winding streets, art galleries, antique shops, local wines, and lively markets. And unlike many of France’s other well-traveled cities, Perpignan’s small size offers so much, all of it reachable on foot.
Colorful cafés in the sun on the Place de la République © Ava Kabouchy
Day 1
MORNING
Start your day by having croissants and coffee at Le Petit Moka on the Quai Vauban after walking under the historic gate of the city, the Castillet, perhaps the city’s most famous landmark. The building dates to the 14th century and was originally built to protect the city from invaders. Climb the Castillet’s 142 steps and enjoy the panoramic view over the city’s rooftops.
A short walk on pink marble sidewalks will take you to the Saint Jean the Baptist Cathedral, not to be missed, a stunning example of Southern Gothic architecture. Construction began in 1324, ordered by King Sancho of Majorca when Perpignan was the capital of the Kingdom of Majorca. Nearby is Campo Santo, the largest surviving medieval cemetery in France dating back to the 13th century. Campo Santo is now a place where fairs and festivals, such as the annual medieval festival, are a must-see if you are in Perpignan in October.
Interior of the St. Jean the Baptist Cathedral, begun in 1324 and completed in 1509 © Ava Kabouchy
AFTERNOON
If you would like to try Moroccan food, La Berbère restaurant is located at 23 Rue des Embruns. It is known for its authentic cuisine, including dishes like couscous, tagines, and homemade pastries.
After lunch, a walk of about 15 minutes will take you to the Palais des Rois de Majorque, the Palace of the Kings of Majorca, a great place for history buffs. The building is a stunning medieval fortress and palace built in the Gothic style. It was constructed in the late 13th century by King James II of Majorca.
If you haven’t spent your entire afternoon in the Palace, which is a distinct possibility, venture forth to the Musée d’Art Hyacinthe Rigaud, located at 21 Rue Mailly in one of the city’s bustling shopping areas. It is a fine arts museum with a collection of artworks from the 14th to the 21st century. Masterpieces by artists such as Picasso, Maillol, and Dufy, among others, are displayed.
View over Perpignan from the Palace of the Kings of Mallorca © Ava Kabouchy
EVENING
Take some time to wander through Perpignan’s colorful, winding maze of streets then enjoy an apéritif in any one of several cafes on the Place de la République. When it’s time for dinner, you will have many different cuisines from which to choose at the Halles Vauban, located along the Quai Vauban. Les Halles opened in 2017, a place where local people shop for specialty meats and cheese, wine, bread, fish, and produce. If you get to Les Halles early enough, you will find comfortable seating outside where you can take your meal and glass of wine and enjoy the lively atmosphere.
A side street where one can enjoy an aperitif or dinner © Ava Kabouchy
Day 2
MORNING
Among Perpignan’s many cafes serving morning croissants and coffee is Le Grand Café de La Poste located very near the inner wall of the Castillet.
Walk once again on some of the city’s pink marble sidewalks to Cassanyes Market in the morning. While walking to the market, you will pass through the St. Jacques neighborhood shared now by North African and Romani communities. This neighborhood is one of the largest permanent Romani settlements in France.
The market is known for its fresh produce and lively atmosphere and is an important part of the two communities. If you turn left where the market begins, you can walk to the 13th century Church of St. Jacques where Vincent Ferrer, a Dominican Friar, founded the Archconfraternity of the Sanch in 1416, a religious brotherhood dedicated to helping the condemned and organizing processions.
Walk back towards the center of Perpignan from the market to the Hôtel de Pams, built between 1852 and 1872 by Pierre Bardou, a co-founder of the JOB cigarette paper company, which created his fortune. The workplace can still be visited and in the 1890s, the son-in-law of Pierre Bardou, Jules Pams, made a luxurious residence of the building, adorned inside with gold, marble, and onyx decorations and paintings by Paul Gervais, a well-known artist at the time. Be sure to visit the lush greenery of the garden.
On the way to the Casanyes Market © Ava Kabouchy
AFTERNOON
Since you are in Perpignan, a lunch enjoying Catalan cuisine is in order. A classic Catalan fish dish is Suquet de Peix, made with a variety of fresh fish and seafood cooked in a savory broth of tomatoes, garlic, onions, and olive oil. L’Assiette Catalane, located at 9 Rue De La République, a six-minute walk from the Castillet, offers this dish and many others.
After lunch, take a leisurely stroll under the sycamore trees on the nearby Square Bir Hakeim or if you are in need of a longer walk after a filling lunch, walk to the Convent of the Dominicans dating back to the 13th century. The large Gothic church now hosts musical programs and many photojournalism images during Perpignan’s annual Visa pour l’Image festival, one of the world’s most renowned photojournalism events.
Perpignan has many colorful fairs and festivals throughout the year, this one announcing that the France Jazzebre music festival is coming to town © Ava Kabouchy
EVENING
For a light dinner, you might try Crêperie Bretonne at 8 Rue du Marechal Foch, about a ten-minute walk from the Castillet to try any of the varieties of crepes offered with a glass of light, sparking apple cider.
Perpignan is not a city to be overlooked. Its Mediterranean climate and numerous festivals make it an ideal place to visit any time of year. Make Perpignan a stop on your way to Collioure and Banyuls and take with you experiences of stepping back in time.
Looking down into the entrance of the Hôtel de Pams © Ava Kabouchy
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More in 48h in, city break, France Today Membership, French catalan, South of France, weekend break
By Ava Kabouchy
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