Théoule-sur-Mer, the Côte d’Azur’s Dazzling Secret Village

 
Théoule-sur-Mer, the Côte d’Azur’s Dazzling Secret Village

Past and present blend in perfect harmony at one of the Côte d’Azur’s most dazzling secret gems: Théoule-sur-Mer

I first discovered the seaside village of Théoule-sur-Mer at high noon on a crystal-clear, warm September day nearly three decades ago. It was hard to forget I felt like someone had socked me in the stomach and left me breathless. We were roughly 20 minutes outside Cannes, driving west along the winding coastal road towards Saint-Raphaël when I caught a glimpse of an emerald cove that quickly disappeared from view. “Stop the car!” I said. “Where are we?” “Calanque d’Anthéor, Le Trayas,” said my friend, squinting at the signpost.

We looked dazedly at the rugged red cliffs of the Estérel massif and the eye-rubbing panorama in high Technicolor. It felt wild, like you’d just entered the set of an old-time western. After pulling over on a small bend where a few cars were already parked, we crossed the road and followed a lone backpacker making his way down the small dirt path. I remember the scent of wild thyme and rosemary, the tiny, rust-coloured pebble beach. The sea was startlingly limpid, with patches of turquoise, jade and violet. We swam all afternoon in water like warm silk.

Château de Théoule by Millésime – Piscine @Gaelle Le Boulicaut11

I’ve been going back, year after year, ever since. Miraculously, this pocket of luminous seaside splendour and 15km stretch of unspoiled coastline has scarcely changed over the years. Any local train takes you to Théoule-sur-Mer, where you can hike in the hills (the paths range from arduous to beginner- and family-friendly) or cycle along the bike trails. Or you may prefer to grab a pan bagnat (a salade niçoise on a flat, round roll) from a sandwich stand and picnic on the beach.

Expect a series of secluded creeks and russet-coloured calanques (among them Maubois, Cape Roux, Saint Berthelémy and Plage du Petit Caneiret) below pine-shaded bluffs, not always visible from the road. You’re on your own – no lifeguards, no beverage stands. Should you crave a simple lunch, there’s friendly family-style snack shack, La Cabane, on a curve in the road near the towering railway viaduct.

But now there’s much more: this year marks the opening of the luxe 44-room hotel Château de Théoule, a turreted, red stone castle meticulously restored by the French group Millésime Collection. Add to that their private beach, La Plage Blanche and restaurant, set back on a stretch of powdery sand. Once an 11th-century fortress frequented by pirates, the castle was given a new lease of life in 1912 when aristocrat Leland de Langley journeyed from the island of Guernsey and bought the property on sight. Formerly a 17th-century soap factory (there are still vestiges in the hotel’s basement) it had been rehabilitated as a country inn and then abandoned. Seduced by this sleepy seaside village, de Langley hired masons and transformed the property into a majestic private residence with crenellated towers made of the red local porphyry stone, surrounding his domain with a lush 2.5ha park of palms, cypresses and roses.

Little else is known about de Langley, except that he enjoyed high society, entertained lavishly and won prizes for his elegant automobiles. He eventually sold the property in 1934, but before that, in 1925, he set about building an even larger troubadour-style castle, the impressive Château Agecroft (still standing today), on the hilltop of La Napoule. Legends abound: some claim that de Langley left the Château de Théoule to his wife so that he could live with his mistress in grand style in his second castle. Coincidentally, across the bay in Mandelieu-la-Napoule, in full sight of the château, eccentric New York banker-turned-artist Henry Clews Jr restored his own medieval castle and gardens from 1917 to 1937. It’s now an American artists’ residence and not-to-be-missed museum – only a short drive from the hotel, it’s easily spotted from just about any vantage point of the Château de Théoule.

Now, after successive owners (it was also a communal vacation home for employees of France’s electricity company, EDF), the stylish resurrection of Château de Théoule is a creative mix of whimsical seashell motifs, handpicked antiques, bold stripes and ancient recycled wood doors, one of several castle remnants unearthed during the restoration. The airy rooms and suites are all unique, dreamed up by designer Marie-Christine Mecoen, who has combined pastel coral and beige linens and rattan palm trees with green marble bathrooms (some with large round tubs with a view of the sky and sea). There’s also a lovely pool for post-beach lounging and a superb restaurant Mareluna, helmed by young Naples-born chef Francesco Fezza, who combines Japanese ingredients with classic Italian dishes. Add to that a small holistic Ec(h)o Spa, which features signature treatments with MyBlend Clarins and a reenergising hot sea shell massage.

Théoule’s little marina

Castle of dreams

Unlike buzzy Cannes, the hotel is in perfect sync with the relaxed, quiet elegance of this essentially one-horse town. Across from the Château de Théoule, off the main road, you’ll find a handful of shops, a bakery and Le Coup de la Fourchette, a family-run restaurant that serves delicious, classic Provençal cuisine. Surprisingly, the recreation of medieval castles is not the only architectural folly of tiny Théoule-sur-Mer. Further west on the coastal road, the Palais Bulles (Bubble Palace) appears in a flash of light, as if a colony of pink flying saucers has touched down on the red rock cliffs. This futuristic home was once owned by fashion designer Pierre Cardin (inventor of the bubble dress). Up close, it’s a sight to behold, a jaw-rubbing spectacle of stacked, interlocking adobe spheres with ten suites, cascading waterfalls and three circular infinity pools, with an outdoor amphitheatre surrounded by cypress and palm trees Built in stages from 1977 to 1984 for wealthy industrialist Pierre Bernard, the house does away with all straight lines, which its unconventional architect, Antti Lovag, called an “aggression against nature”. Essentially, at every turn, the circle prevails: labyrinths of stairways lead to curved, sunlit rooms with round sky domes or oculus glass windows. The overall effect is a playful sci-fi vibe, which is ideal for private special events that range from fashion photo shoots and concerts to weddings and lavish parties.

Pierre Cardin, who died in 2020, always felt a special connection to the villa and its serene setting. “This place is both a cathedral and a monastery, a source of equilibrium and peace,” he once told Jean-Pascal Hesse, the author of the book, The Palais Bulles of Pierre Cardin. The stunning interiors have been preserved and showcase Cardin’s art collection and décor, such as the furniture he designed in precious lacquered woods.

No wonder Théoule-sur-Mer (whose current population has reached approximately 1,500 souls) ranked high – number 12 –  in a 2024 survey of France’s top villages, where it is “the most pleasant” to live (où il fait bon vivre). It’s a village for dreamers, aquanauts, trekkers, cyclists, sunset-gazers and anyone who loves to soak up timeless landscapes from the comfort of a sea-facing terrace with a glass of chilled local rosé in hand.

THÉOULE-SUR-MER ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE

BY AIR

  • Flights to Nice from the several UK airports with easyJet and British Airways

BY TRAIN

  • Trains to Nice, change for the SNCF local train TER (one-hour train ride) to Théoule-sur-Mer

BY ROAD

  • If you’re driving, take the A8 and exit at Mandelieu- La Napoule, then take the coastal road D6098 west.

FURTHER INFORMATION

WHERE TO STAY

WHERE TO EAT

PRIVATE SPECIAL EVENTS

From France Today Magazine

Lead photo credit : PLAGES THEOULE LA FIGUEIRETTE

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