Carnet de Voyage: Unknown Luberon 

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When ‘A Year in Provence’ was first published in 1989, Peter Mayle little thought that his book would sell almost six million copies in forty languages. Nor did he foresee the number of visitors and foreign house purchasers that the book, followed by the novel and film ‘A Good Year’, would attract to the Luberon. It is rare nowadays to visit such towns as Bonnieux, Ménerbes and Gordes without finding the streets, cafes and restaurants crowded. 

However, east of Apt the countryside becomes less commercialised, the region being relatively unvisited and little known to foreign holidaymakers. This is surprising because the area is strikingly beautiful, full of attractive small towns and villages and excellent restaurants and cafes. Fields of lavender, golden sunflowers and the occasional vineyard all add to the charm. 

Follow the D900 through the Luberon and soon after Apt there are turnings to left and right which take you to attractive hilltop villages. On the left is Caseneuve set between the “Monts de Vaucluse” and the Luberon Mountains with a breathtaking view back towards Apt. Caseneuve has an impressive Romanesque château with ramparts, towers and high stone walls. You can wander through the narrow, cobbled streets and vaulted passages and there are several ancient sundials as well as the largest oratory in Provence. 

To the right of the main road a steep climb brings you to Saignon, a lovely village to stroll around with winding narrow streets and fountains. From the top of the rock next to the village are spectacular views which on a clear day extend to Mont Ventoux, the Lure Mountain and even to Avignon. Don’t miss the 12th century Romanesque church, standing just outside the village walls, with its imposing front façade. The church is on the route for pilgrims to Rome along the Via Domitia and for those going to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. 

Some miles to the east and on the northern side of the main road lies the village of Oppedette situated picturesquely on a rocky hillside above the Calavon River. The nearby Gorges d’Oppedette has marked trails allowing you to choose between walks next to the river or above the gorges. At the very top of the village is a vantage point with a wooden cross and fine views to the north and east. 

Straddling the main road, which now became the D4100, is Céreste-en-Luberon with its shops and restaurants. Céreste is a charming village, in the medieval quarter of which are narrow cobbled streets with handsome stone houses. Close by, and well worth visiting, is a Roman bridge and the Carluc Priory, a historic monument dating back to the 11th century which stands in woodlands on a cliff side and is surrounded by a necropolis. Rock tombs can be seen and explanatory panels allow visitors to learn more about the priory. Picnic tables are also provided. 

A little further on, the commune of Montjustin stands astride a ridge path affording fine views of the Luberon Geological Nature Reserve and the Luberon mountains. Henri Cartier-Bresson, the noted French photographer and artist, is buried in the cemetery here.

A few miles to the east at Les Granons you reach crossroads. Turning to the left you are soon in Reillanne with its attractive selection of shops and cafes and a village square boasting a 19th century monumental fountain. High above is the Chapelle Saint-Denis with a bell tower from which there are panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. In July,this is the site for a superb fireworks display. Every Sunday morning a bustling market fills the square with stalls selling a wide range of Provençal products. 

Turning right at Les Granons, a steep hill and another right turn brings you to the village of Montfuron. Montfuron has a photogenic windmill in working order and occasionally open to the public, a “castle” from above which are magnificent 360° views, a well, an excellent restaurant and a bar/antique shop – Bric Bar Broc – which is the centre of village life. 

A little further to the east lies the small village of Saint-Martin-les-Eaux set among rolling countryside and woodland. The church of St Martin is a listed historical monument but the unique feature of the village is the modern amphitheatre providing seating for a wide range of productions and events. 

A few miles further on is Dauphin, arguably the most beautiful hilltop village in the whole of the Luberon. Enter through the village gates and wander along the paved narrow streets and alleyways where you can admire the stone façades of the old buildings. Climb to the ramparts with towers and the ancient church of Eglise Saint Martin where at the time of Epiphany you can see one of the outstanding seasonal decorations in the region – a crib with “Santons” and small Provencal figures. Nearby is a panoramic view which takes in the domes of Saint-Michel-l’Observatoire.

Saint-Michel-l’Observatoire, on the opposite side of the main road, is another attractive village with a large square, two churches, a fountain and handsome houses with strikingly decorated doors. There are many vantage points affording fine views. A short drive from the village is the Haute Provence Observatory established in 1937. The location was chosen because it boasts over 300 days of sunshine each year and clear skies for studying the stars. With its many domes, the Observatory offers a programme of events every summer which are open to the public.  

Returning to the D4100 you will soon be in Mane with its double ramparts, a host of cobbled streets and the Château de Sauvan, an 18th century manor house which has a beautiful French-style formal garden. 

Drive over a modern and handsome viaduct and climb the hill into Forcalquier. In the main square is the cathedral dating from the 12th century. Every July, Forcalquier offers a varied musical programme featuring international artists as well as young performers. Many of the events are held in the cathedral. The square has several cafes and every Monday is occupied by a farmers’ market which is renowned throughout the region. Stroll along the narrow streets and a cobbled path above the town and at the top of the hill you reach the citadel which provides superb views over the surrounding countryside. On the way you follow a series of Stations of the Cross. 

The distance from Apt to Forcalquier is just 42 kilometres and the whole area is attractive both as a place to live and for wonderful holidays. Climate and scenery, together with charming small towns and villages, conspire to ensure a memorable stay however short or long it may be. Since 2005 I have had the opportunity to get to know the area well and have made frequent visits. What’s stopping you? 

Read our other Carnet de Voyage entries here.

Bernard Stradling lives in Cheltenham. He spent his career as a Librarian and for 17 years before retirement was the County Librarian for Gloucestershire. He was awarded the MBE in 1987. He is also a Fellow of the Royal Society for the Arts and a Licentiate of the Royal Photographic Society.