8 Great Cycling Regions in France

What are the best cycling regions in France? An avid and passionate cyclist lets us in on his favourite destination for a cycling holiday.
“What is your favorite place to bike in France?”
I get asked this question by friends and family, who know I travel to France just about every year for a cycling adventure. My go-to response is: “The next one.”
This is a good way to avoid having to answer this impossible question. France seems to have been designed with cycling in mind, as the geography and history, old stone villages and towns, the scenic rivers, gorges and mountains, terrific road and bike-path infrastructure, food, wine and culture add up to make France just about perfect for a cycling trip. While I can’t – I won’t – select a favorite region, I can provide some insight to help you decide what region might be best for you or what region may be next for you.
So, here we go, 8 great destinations to consider …
The Loire – ideal for a first cycling holiday experience
I’m starting with the Loire because this is the site of my first French cycling trip, all the way back in 1985. I was covering the Paris Air Show, for the third time (I was an aviation writer back then), and decided I wanted to see some of the famous French countryside Van Gogh and Monet loved to paint. I took the train to Blois, and on the way read in the Let’s Go France guidebook that the best way to see the region was by bike. And so, I rented a bike. I had no idea what I was doing back then and would have been in big trouble if I got a flat tire. But off I went …. and loved it (and didn’t get a flat). In my journal, I wrote, on the last day of my week-long trip: “I’m really enjoying the riding and would love to keep going.”
The Loire is an ideal spot for your first French cycling adventure. The terrain is beautiful, but not too hilly. There are a lot of bike paths and quiet rural roads, and, of course, all the famous chateaux and fields of sunflowers. There are several great towns to stay in – Blois, Amboise, Tours, Chinon, Saumur, Angers – that aren’t too far apart. It’s a romantic spot for couples. And if one member of a couple likes to ride more than the other, he/she can stay in Tours or Angers and sightsee, while the other goes on a great 25- or 35-mile mile loop.
FYI: I have learned how to fix a flat; a necessary skill on an unsupported bike trip.
Here’s the link to my Biking the Loire eBook.

The Loire Valley is dotted with stunning castles to visit © Steve Wartenberg
Provence – for the experienced climbers.
This is where I fell in love with climbing. On Mont Ventoux and the Gorges de la Nesque, two amazing rides. I would recommend Provence for more experienced cyclists who like the challenge of climbing. The Ventoux is an epic mountain climb (21 kilometers and an average gradient of 7.5 percent) that is considered one of the toughest climbs in the Tour de France. Thousands of people from all over Europe and beyond come every year to climb the Ventoux, and it’s fun to meet and chat with fellow cyclists at the summit, which has been described as similar to the surface of the moon. The views are spectacular; it’s as if you were looking down from an airplane. The Nesque isn’t as tough a climb, and the views down and around the gorge are wonderful. And then there are the hilltop towns of Gordes, Bonnieux, Sault, Lacoste and Venasque, all worth a visit and great bases for day trips.
Here’s the link to my Biking Provence eBook

Epic climbs await cyclists in Provence © Steve Wartenberg
Normandy – for fascinating history stops.
I rode through Normandy in 1990 and 1993 as part of longer trips. And then, in1999, I traveled to Normandy with the group of U.S. Army Rangers who landed on these shores on D-Day. I wrote about them for the newspaper I worked for at the time, and it remains my favorite all-time assignment.
Normandy is all about the D-Day sights: the steep Pointe du Hoc cliffs the Rangers climbed under fire from the entrenched Germans above, the American Cemetery where thousands of heroes are buried, the port at Arromanches the British built on D-Day while under fire, as well as several D-Day museums. All these sights are fairly close to one another. On my most recent Normandy trip, I stayed in Bayeux and did day trips from here. Caen is another option for a base.
If you’re interested in World War II history, Normandy is perfect. However, the riding is mediocre for France. This section of Normandy is extremely rural, with very few villages to stop in and there’s not much interesting geography.
Here’s the link to my Biking Normandy eBook.

Visit the Remembrance sites while biking in Normandy © Steve Wartenberg
Haute-Savoie – more climbs with stunning views
This is another great destination for cyclists who enjoy climbing. The Alps are a massive region and, so far, I’ve only explored the northern Haute Savoie section, from my base towns of Annecy and Cluses. I highly recommend Annecy, a gorgeous town on the northern edge of Lake Annecy. The ride around the lake on the bike path is one of the most scenic rides anywhere in France and it is totally flat (here’s the link to my story about this ride). Lake Annecy is surrounded by mountains, which means there are plenty of cols (mountain passes) to climb, including the Cret de Chatillon, Forclaz, Aravis and the Colombière, a regular climb in the Tour de France. While Annecy is a fairly big town, it’s very bike friendly and easy to get in and out of and onto the bike path and into the mountains.
Here’s the link to my Biking the Alps eBook
Dordogne – rural charm with a little bit of everything
The Dordogne has a little bit of everything: Rides along the picturesque Dordogne River; the ruins of a hilltop castle (Beynac); the fantastic views down to the valley from the clifftop village of Domme; towns built into the sides of cliffs (La Roque Gageac and Rocamadour); an underground cavern (Gouffre de Padirac); a town that’s entirely red (Collonges la-Rouge); and a fairly big city (Sarlat) with a delicious culinary heritage. This diversity of geography and long list of interesting sights makes the Dordogne one of my favorite regions for cycling.
Here’s the link to my Biking the Dordogne eBook
Bordeaux – a place beyond the wines.
The Bordeaux region is more than wine and includes great cycling. Highlights include the medieval wine village of St-Emillion, the vast Blaye Citadel, a ferry ride with your bike across the Garonne River, rides through and along some of the world’s most famous vineyards, the bike paths along the Atlantic Coast, and climbing up (by foot, not bike!) the Dune du Pilat, the tallest sand dune in all of Europe.
Here’s the link to my Biking Bordeaux eBook
The Maritime Alps and French Riviera
OK, it’s time for more climbing and, of course, more stunning views. While some people head to the French Riviera for the beaches and nightlife, cyclists (including numerous professional cyclists who live in this region) flock here to ride up and down the cols of the Alps-Maritime region. From the three base towns where I stayed (Nice, Sospel and Vence), I did day trips on the bike path that runs along the coast, and then up into the mountains to climb the famous Turini, Madone, Vence, Eze and Braus cols.
If you need a day off the bike, how about a hike? Here’s the link to my France Today story on hikes in this region.
Here’s the link to my Biking the Maritime Alps and French Riviera eBook.

Ascend to new heights in the Alps © Steve Wartenberg
Burgundy – richly diverse cycling
Like Bordeaux, Burgundy is all about the wine – and the cycling. My spring 2024 trip here was my first time in the region, and I was pleasantly surprised by how diverse and interesting the cycling was. I stayed in Beaune and Tournus and did day trips from each. Dijon, Chalon-sur-Saône and Macon would also make good bases for day trips and all these towns are connected by train. In addition to the popular Voie des Vignes (Route of Vines) that winds its way through the vineyards and wine towns of Pommard and Santenay; you can pedal along the scenic Canal de Bourgogne and watch the cranes hunt for food; ride on the bike path along the Saone River from Tournus to Macon; cycle through the Tunnel du Bois Clair, the longest bike tunnel in all of France; and climb up to the spectacular views from the Cirque du Bout du Monde (Circus at the End of the World).
Here’s the link to my Biking Burgundy eBook.
Next on my list: Alsace Lorraine. I rode through here several years ago as part of a longer trip (Paris to Amsterdam via Germany, Luxembourg and Belgium). It’s time to return and spend a week or more here exploring the wine route and villages and mountains to the west.
I hope this helps, and I hope you’re planning your own French cycling adventure and have an amazing and safe trip.
Lead photo credit : © shutterstock
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