Restaurant Reviews: Racine in Reims

Restaurant Reviews: Racine in Reims

Japanese-born Kazuyuki Tanaka’s serene Zen dining room near the cathedral in the heart of the city is the table not to miss during a visit to Reims and the surrounding Champagne country. With suave service overseen by Tanaka’s French wife, Marine, and befitting the restaurant’s Michelin star, a meal here is an intriguing and refined gastronomic experience.

Tanaka’s menus change regularly, but a recent good-value €60 lunch menu began with four Fabergé-like hors d’oeuvres, including finely grated beetroot with smoked eel and smoked eel bouillon, and continued with marinated salmon with kiwi and rutabaga and John Dory with a trio of sauces. Both dishes were made with superb produce and were supremely elegant in their deeply meditated minimalism, too.

A dessert of green-tea sponge, sorbet and fresh fruit concluded this memorable meal, which was accompanied by several champagnes by the glass from small producers which are rarely seen outside of the region and which proved that champagne pairs as brilliantly with food as any other wine.

6 Place Godinot, Tel. (33) 03-26-35-16-95,

Want to be inspired by more French foodie experiences and enjoy classic French food, wine and recipes? Head to our sister website on Taste of France here.

From France Today magazine


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Alexander Lobrano grew up in Connecticut, and lived in Boston, New York and London before moving to Paris, his home today, in 1986. He was European Correspondent for Gourmet magazine from 1999 until its closing, and has written about food and travel for Saveur, Bon Appetit, Food & Wine, the New York Times, Wall Street Journal, Guardian, Travel & Leisure, Departures, Conde Nast Traveler, and many other publications in the United States and the United Kingdom. He is the author of HUNGRY FOR PARIS, 2nd Edition (Random House, 4/2014), HUNGRY FOR FRANCE (Rizzoli, 4/2014), and MY PLACE AT THE TABLE, newly published in June 2021.

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