The higgledy-piggledy pink, blue and ochre ancient homes that make up the old town in Troyes (pronounced Trwa) will have you posting on Instagram all day long.  
 
Situated on the Seine, this capital of the Aube department in the Grand-Est region of France, grew rich thanks to the shrewd Counts of Champagne who offered highway protection if merchants brought their wares to its medieval fairs. The tradesmen did so and the ensuing wealth helped create a dense centre of colourful wattle and daub houses and magnificent churches with some of the best stained glass in Europe. Troyes is easily reachable, being about 35 minutes with Le Shuttle from the UK to Calais then a 3.5 hours drive down the A26 or about a 2.5 hour train journey from Paris.

Place Alexandre Israël © shutterstock

MORNING 
If it’s warm, have breakfast in the leafy courtyard of family-run Le Champ des Oiseaux and La Maison de Rhodes (two houses, one hotel) in 18/20 Linard Gonthier Street, just behind the cathedral. Visitors can dine in this beautiful 15^th century hotel and enjoy the beam and cobblestone ambience of these two former family homes, which hint of the old town to come.  
 
After breakfast join the self-guided circuit which passes just outside the hotel. Simply follow a series of arrows set in the pavement, stamped with the image of a Knight Templar, through historic Troyes. The 2.5 mile route takes about three leisurely hours following the rather apt champagne cork shaped outline of the city.  
 
For a shorter walk, start at the cathedral and stroll along Rue de la Cité over the river to the retail or merchants’ quarter. Meander down the hidden lanes and alleyways with characterful shops selling chocolate, Chaource cheese and of course wine. Don’t miss narrow Ruelle des Chats or cat alley – so named because cats jump from one slanting medieval building to another. Nearby, in 5 rue de la Madeleine, is 12th century Sainte-Madeleine church, one of the oldest in Troyes, renowned for its lace-like stone rood screen. Take a short break next door in Le Jardin des Innocents – a peaceful medieval-inspired white garden which used to be the church’s cemetery. 

The Gothic Cathedrale St Pierre-et-St Paul © shutterstock

Day 1

AFTERNOON 

At lunchtime have a bite to eat at any of the many cafes and restaurants in the bustling main square, Place de l’Hotel de Ville and watch the world go by with a glass of champagne. At 8 euros a glass, it’s a bargain and it’s the local drink, after all. 
 
Besides being a centre for champagne, Troyes is also the European capital of stained glass and has 40% of the world’s stained glass; so enjoy some of the best at nearby Saint-Remy Church in Place Saint Remy, which has truly vibrant windows. Stained glass is traditionally “read” starting from the bottom, left to right; in the lowest corner you can often find an image and name of the donor who paid for the glass. 

© shutterstock

Cross the river to the cathedral in Place Saint-Pierre, for another fix of this early Renaissance artistry. Almost 80% of Troyes’ stained glass was created in the 16^th century and  in between the soaring arches of Saint-Pierre-Saint-Paul you can enjoy even more stunning examples including the Mystic Wine Press in the nave by stained glass master, Linard Gonthier. 
 
In the evening head to Octave for dinner, hidden down Rue des Quinze Vingts in the old town. The restaurant, popular with Troyans, is casual, friendly and specializes in delicious tapas-like, fresh, mainly local dishes to share.  

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Day 2 

MORNING  
If you have a car, you really should visit a champagne vineyard. But before you leave, pick up a picnic for later, from artisan bakery Tonton Farine at 46 Bd Victor Hugo on the west (retail side) of the old town, which does excellent salads, sandwiches and rolls.   
 
One of the most important champagne growing areas in the Aube is Côte des Bar whose tourist office lists wineries which are open to visitors. Some, like  Chassenay D’Arce at 11 Rue du Pressoir, 10110 Ville-sur-Arce, have a website on which you can book directly. Their excellent tours reveal just how labour-intensive it is to create a bottle of champagne – which at least makes the price (and vintage) easier to swallow! As well as tastings, you can also dine here, enjoying a perfect pairing of food and champagne. 

Côte des Bar © shutterstock

After the winery, head to nearby Essoyes a typical champagne village where Renoir once lived. Here you can picnic by the river where he painted Les Laveuses (Washerwomen) or if it’s wet, lunch at the excellent L’Union restaurant at 1 Place du General de Gaulle. It does simple, typical French meals and is very popular – so you will need to book.  
 
If you don’t have a car, visit the off-licence, Le Cellier Saint Pierre in 1 Place Saint Pierre, Troyes, opposite the cathedral. It stocks  a wide range of wine and especially regional champagne as well as local sloe liquor, Prunelle de Troyes. The medieval building was once a home for cannons and there is still a tunnel (now disused) which runs from the building to the cathedral. Do go downstairs to the cellar. In cool corners you can find dusty bottles of old red wine costing over €800… 

Basilica of Saint Urban © shutterstock

AFTERNOON 
If you have time, visit the excellent stained-glass museum, Cité du Vitrail in Hotel-Dieu-le-Comte 31 Quai des Comtes des Champagne. As well as explaining the history of stained glass, there are also some remarkable examples from the Middle Ages. Take a break in one of the cafes on the square or, drop in to The Modern Art Museum, 14 Pl Saint-Pierre, housed rather beautifully in the former Bishop’s Palace. 
 
Historically, Troyes was a prosperous textile centre and big companies like Petit Bateau and Lacoste eventually established themselves here. If museums aren’t your thing, go shopping for bargains at the outlet villages, such as McArthurGlen at Voie du Bois, 10150 Pont-Sainte-Marie or Marques Avenue at 114 Bd de Dijon, 10800 Saint-Julien-les-Villas. 

© shutterstock

In the evening enjoy another atmospheric meal in Le Champ des Oiseaux Maison du Rhodes or head up to the main square, Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, and pull up at any of the restaurants for easy dining and of course people-watching.  
 
Troyes is generally viewed as a stop-over on the way to the Alps or Provence, but the town and area are so beguiling and historic you will want to stay for a few days if not more. 

STAY: 
Le Champ des Oiseaux Maison Rhodes  https://www.maisonderhodes.com 
4* Hotel in old town. 
 
EAT: 
Le Champ des Oiseaux Maison Rhodes: www.maisonderhodes.com 
Restaurant L’Union: www.instagram.com/lunionessoyes/ 
Chassenay D’Arce: (www.chassenay.com) 
Octave: www.instagram.com/octave.lerestaurant/ 
Tonton Farine: www.instagram.com/tonton.farine/reels/ 
 
For more information:  en.troyeslachampagne.com 
Côte des Bar tourist office: maisons-champagne.com/en/appellation/geographical-area/the-cote-des-bar/ 

Get there with Le Shuttle: www.leshuttle.com/uk-en