An Ideal Family Holiday in France

From epic adventures to miniature time travel, from beautiful beaches to fabulous food, the Vendée ticks every box for a fine family holiday.

The word ‘magical’ is overused to describe tourist attractions but some unquestionably merit such a label. Puy du Fou, the sprawling historical theme park located at Les Epesses in the Vendée, is a case in point. Prior to visiting, I had heard many great things in praise of its stunning storytelling and special effects, and its centuries-spanning range of spectacular shows. But to experience it is truly wondrous.

So here I am, seated in one of the park’s huge outdoor arenas (there are indoor, theatre-style ones, too, on the list of 20 must-see shows, more on which later) feeling as excited as a little kid. I watch, eyes agog and mouth agape, in awe as a replica Viking longship emerges from underwater, from which descend armed marauders to ransack a simple French village whose residents are celebrating a wedding. The pounding musical score, the thatched roofs all aflame, and realistic stunt-fight scenes played out by a large number of actors, combine superbly to produce a stunning drama. Youngsters all around me roar their approval each time one of the villainous invaders takes a hit. Will the brave Gallic defenders see off the arrivistes? What do you think? This, like most of the park’s shows, offers a very patriotic French ‘living history’ experience, after all.

The Viking spectacle was my debut Puy du Fou show, but there was so much more to marvel at – there are too many highlights to mention but I can confirm that the reputed Cinéscénie nighttime show (2,550 actors on a stage spread over 23 hectares and 28,000 costumes!) is one of the most impressive things I’ve ever witnessed. I also loved the gladiators-and-chariots thrill of Le Signe du Triomphe, set in a Gallo-Roman amphitheatre with much raucous audience participation; the extraordinary Le Dernier Panache, the tale of a French naval officer, staged indoors with an eye-popping 360° decor; and Le Bal des Oiseaux Fantômes, a choreographed display featuring some 300 swooping eagles, falcons, vultures, kites and owls.

My 2-day stay was just enough to see all the essentials, with some planning regarding show start times required (the Puy du Fou app is a great help and worth downloading); but 3 or 4 days is probably better. I also advise taking the queue-jumping Pass Émotion ticket which gives access to ‘reserved’ seats up to 10 minutes before the start of each show (includes entry to 9 shows).

As for accommodation, take your pick of on-site themed hotels; mine, La Citadelle was a super-comfortable medieval home from home but you may prefer 17th century splendour at Le Grand Siècle or a Gallo-Roman villa. They complete the immersive experience of Puy du Fou’s ‘magical’ time-travel adventures.

Tiny treat

The epic proportions and multi-sensory abundance of Puy du Fou lie in stark contrast to the terrifically tiny displays at Vendée Miniature in Brétignolles-sur-Mer. They do share, however, some meticulous artisanship and creative ingenuity in their own very different ways. This superb miniature village, a 16-year labour of love by former cabinet maker Yves Aubron and his wife Marie-Françoise, recreates the life of a 1920s Vendéen village at 1:10 scale.

The 50 buildings are crafted from schist, granite and limestone, featuring an astonishing 80,000 roof tiles and 25,000 slates, with 600 human figures plus 40 horse-drawn carriages reproduced from real models. It is considered one of France’s finest miniature villages and with good reason: the utterly charming scenes, from a wedding to the train station (and moving train, naturellement), as well as meticulous detail – from cakes in the boulangerie, to saucisses in the boucherie, to potatoes being harvested in the fields are petits and perfect. New designers took over in 2019, making constant additions and improvements to increase the site’s wow-factor, while visitors can also enrol in modelling and ceramic workshops.

Another step back in time can be enjoyed at the authentically preserved and restored early 20th-century Vendéen peasant home and outbuildings – this time to actual scale! – called La bourrine du bois Juquaud. Located in the heart of a protected natural site in the marais (marshland) at Saint-Hilaire-de-Riez, the single-storey homestead evokes the simple if harsh life endured by its final resident, Armandine.

Memorable trivia titbits I picked up during the intriguing guided tour: the house’s shutters were painted blue to mimic the shawl worn by the Virgin Mary, and Armandine only washed her hair 3 or 4 times a year!

Living and learning

Passing from land to coast the Vendée department is tailor-made for family seaside holidays with its cute fishing ports and expansive beaches – there are 3 unmissable spots that serve as reminders of the region’s inextricable ties to nature and la mer. Les Marais Salants de la Vie is a working salt farm where ‘white gold’ has been harvested using traditional techniques and tools since salt production was revived in the 1990s. They scoop up 10 tonnes per season – pop into the on-site boutique and stock up on this refined condiment to bring home.

Next is l’Huîtrière de Fromentine. Here, knowledgeable and passionate oyster breeder David Lecossois welcomes visitors for a 90-minute tour of his oyster beds (he translates into English as he goes along, offering detailed information about the life of an oyster!) followed by a lunchtime dégustation of his prized bivalves with a glass of Muscadet. Simply divine – and enjoyably educational too. The third is Biotopia, a nature and environment educational centre at Notre-Dame-de-Monts. The modern, digital exhibition space reveals the mysteries of the area’s ocean, beaches and forests, while the outdoor trail showcases biodiversity in situ.

Sardines and sandy beaches

In the cute seaside town of Saint Gilles Croix de Vie there is more fishy business to attend to. First a visit to the excellent Escale Pêche, a rather brilliantly conceived museum dedicated to the town’s fishing industry. From the history of the fishing port, to the different species fished, to the life of a fisherman and how the chain of sale at the nearby criée (fish auction) functions, it is a great way to spend a couple of hours, with lots of interactive elements for children.

What else to feast on at lunchtime, then, than some freshly grilled, straight-from-the net sardines, the speciality of utterly charming portside cabin-come-restaurant Le Banc des Sardines? Just €8.50 buys you a hearty plate of fish and potatoes and a glass of white or rosé. You will never eat better sardines in your life.

Saint Gilles Croix de Vie has an excellent market around Place Guy Kergoustin on Wednesdays and Saturdays – perfect for self-caterers seeking great fish, fruit and veg, while the town is also well served for that most essential of Vendéen activities: playing on a wide, sandy beach with plenty of room (3km in total). Find a parking space on Boulevard des Océanides and head down the steps to enjoy nautical fun, a refreshing dip, or bask in the sun – the perfect conclusion to a stay in this most welcoming and pleasurable of French holiday destinations.

VENDEE ESSENTIALS

GETTING THERE

AIR

• La Rochelle-Île de Ré and Nantes-Atlantique airports are just 30 minutes from the Vendée coast.

TRAIN

• Vendée is located around three hours from Paris by TGV.

CAR

• By car from Paris to Les Sables d’Olonne via La Roche-sur-Yon is 450km (autoroute A10/A11/A87).

WHERE TO STAY

Justin was a guest of Summer France (0203 475 4756, www.summerfrance, co.uk) and stayed in a self-catering cottage at Les Maisons de Fontenelles on the outskirts of an excellent 18-hole golf course in Saint Gilles Croix de Vie. With its elegant architecture, the residence oozes quality and comfort and cottages sleep from four to six people. During summer 2024, a seven-night stay cost from £826 total (check website for 2025 prices).

Puy du Fou

Choose between a stay (park & hotel, from €74 per person) or simply park tickets (from €37 per person). There are many dining options on-site, from restaurants and buffets to snack bars. Enjoy reduced prices by booking your meals online in advance.

www.puydufou.com/france/en/must-see-france

ACTIVITIES

• Hire a bicycle to explore local cycle paths or head into Saint Gilles Croix de Vie, l’Atelier e-velo, 45 Quai Gorin, 85800 Saint Gilles Croix de Vie: www.latelierevelo.fr
• Escale Pêche fishing interpretation centre: www.escalepeche-vendee.fr
• La bourrine du Bois Juquaud: www.sainthilairederiez.fr/la-bourrine-du-bois-juquaud
• L’Huitrière de Fromentine: www.huitres-vendee.com
• Les Marais salants de la Vie: www.sainthilairederiez.fr/les-marais-salants-de-la-vie
• Biotopia: www.biotopia.fr

WHERE TO EAT

• Le Banc des Sardines: www.le-banc-des-sardines.fr (no advance booking, get there early for lunch)

CONTACTS

• Vendée Tourism: www.in-vendee.com
• Saint Gilles Croix de Vie: uk.payssaintgilles-tourisme.fr

From France Today Magazine