Bienvenue Chez les Ch’tis: France’s Northernmost Department

 
Bienvenue Chez les Ch’tis: France’s Northernmost Department

Nord is France’s most northerly department, a land rich in culture, food, art and history, all dominated by the great city of Lille.

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Les Ch’tis. That’s the affectionate nickname given to people from the far north of France. They’re indeed a welcoming lot, with a history, culture, countryside and cuisine as rich as you’d find in any other region of the land. One of the most intriguing departments to visit here is Nord, a long and narrow strip stretching along the western half of the Belgian frontier, from Dunkerque in the northwest all the way to the Lac du ValJoly in the southeast. Not only is it the longest of all the French departments, it’s also the most populous, with many thriving cities, including Roubaix, Tourcoing, Dunkerque, Villeneuve d’Ascq, Valenciennes and, the largest of all, Lille. Criss-crossing the department are several rivers, the biggest of which are Yser, Lys, Deûle, Escaut, Scarpe and Sambre. Flemish culture abounds here, making its mark on the cuisine, the art and the architecture. Bienvenue chez les Ch’tis.

Lille

Any trip to Nord really ought to start in Lille. Linked to the UK by direct Eurostar train, it’s just an hour and 22 minutes from London. That’s about the same time as it takes to get to Birmingham or Bristol. Newcomers to Lille are always bowled over by its charms. Culturally by far the most important centre in the north, this city of 237,000 people boasts wonderful architecture, a labyrinthine old quarter (Vieux-Lille), a smorgasbord of excellent restaurants and trendy beer-filled bars, très chic shops, and the sort of bustling nightlife you’d expect from a major university town.

Back in 2004 Lille was deservedly chosen as the European Capital of Culture. Ever since then, the city has staged a regular cultural programme called Lille 3000, with multiple exhibitions, shows, conferences and events. Make no mistake: this is a really cool European city. Within the sprawling conurbation that surrounds Lille, known as la Metropole de Lille, there are plenty of sites to visit, particularly La Piscine museum in Roubaix, the Villa Cavrois in Croix, and the LaM art museum in Villeneuve d’Ascq.

You could happily spend a fortnight dipping in and out of the many museums in Lille and its environs. The city is perfect either for a weekend break or for a base from which to strike out to Nord’s other great towns and regions.

Dunkerque

The main city on Nord’s coast, Dunkerque is where most Britons will arrive by ferry from the UK. Famous as the site of Operation Dynamo in 1940, when British and French soldiers evacuated back to England (as immortalised in Christopher Nolan’s 2017 film, Dunkirk), it has a regrettably violent history and a huge industrial harbour, the third largest in France.

Nowadays, Dunkerque is a lively university town with a pretty, inner harbour called the Bassin du Commerce, and plenty of events and festivals staged throughout the year, such as the Carnaval de Dunkerque around Mardi Gras, La Bonne Aventure music festival in June and the freestyle kite-surfing world championship on August 28 to September 1. British tourists tend to hurry through, but the wiser ones hang around to enjoy the museums and the beach, Malo-les-Bains, with its long café- and restaurant-lined promenade. Even among all the post-World War II reconstruction here you can find some intriguing Art Nouveau-style villas.

While Nord may not enjoy the blistering heat of France’s southern coastlines, its wide, open beaches are fun in the summer months. As well as Malo-les-Bains, you’ll enjoy Leffrinckoucke, Zuydcoote and Bray-Dunes. Sports on offer include yachting, kite-surfing, paddle-boarding, sea kayaking and sand yachting. Or you can lose yourself in the vast, rolling dunes, many of them protected nature reserves.

Hiking around the beaches in Dunkerque © Dune Marchand

La Flandre française

French Flanders roughly corresponds to the northern section of the Nord department, from Dunkerque to Lille, where the Flemish language used to be widely spoken. Heading south from Dunkerque is the lovely town of Bergues, prettified by its ramparts and famous belfry. It was here that the 2008 comedy movie Bienvenue chez les Ch’tis was set. Directed by Dany Boon, it was enormously successful at the box office, endearing the Ch’tis to the rest of France, but also reinforcing stereotypes about northern culture, weather and people.

Fans of the film can join a walking tour of Bergues which takes in many of the settings. Book at the tourist office. You can even stay the night inside Bergues’ belfry, where two gîtes are available to guests. Just south of Bergues is Cassel, another lovely Flemish town. Situated on one of the three Monts de Flandre, it offers plenty of country walks and traditional estaminet restaurants with views over the surrounding countryside.

The Musée de Flandre is well worth a visit. One new attraction here is the Blockhaus du Peckel, a World War II military bunker that has been opened up to the public. In May 1940, ten or so British soldiers of the Gloucestershire Regiment mounted a vicious attack on this structure, thereby slowing the advance of the Germans and giving the Allied troops at Dunkerque vital extra time to retreat. Wearing virtual reality headsets, visitors can now relive the most dramatic moment of this daring raid.

Bergues in ‘la Flandre française’

Mining region

Although the Nord department is by no means mountainous, it does have its own miniature mountains… or slag heaps, to be more precise. Known as terrils, these black piles of earth and stone were created when the many coal mines of the region were excavated. There are dozens of them across the region, standing sentry over the mines that once powered much of France. Many have since been colonised by plant life so they now resemble natural hills, and they’re popular with hikers, bikers and runners. The Terril des Argales, near Rieulay, the Terril Sabatier near Raismes, and the Chabaud-Latour near Condé-sur-L’Escaut are all great to visit. At the former, there’s a lakeside beach with water. sports and a goat farm; from the top of the Terril Sabatier, there are views for more than 60km across the surrounding countryside.

There are two towns in the mining region that really shouldn’t be missed. First is Douai, which, every year in July, stages the Fêtes de Gayant, a three-day procession of giant wicker mannequins. Then there’s Valenciennes, rich in art and culture, and perfect for couples wanting an exciting weekend break.

Natural beauty spot Rieulay

Avesnois

With its hills and blue-stone houses, some say it’s like a little Switzerland. Avesnois is the greenest and most rural section of Nord, much of it contained within the huge Parc Naturel Régional de l’Avesnois, 9,000 hectares of which is covered in the thick Forêt de Mormal. The rolling hills make it popular with road cyclists. One route that many choose is the Voie Verte de l’Avesnois, which crosses the region from Maubeuge to Glageon easy enough even for beginners. In the Avesnois you’ll also find the village of Maroilles, home to the famous Maroilles cheese, with its distinctive smell and orange rind..

Everywhere you look in this part of Nord, you’ll find evidence of the four traditional industries that used to dominate: textiles, glassmaking, woodturning and agriculture.

Voie Verte de l’Avesnois between Ferrière la Grande et Glageon

Cambrai and around

Shortly before the sun rose on November 20, 1917, a major tank battle took place on the western side of Cambrai. Initially, the British and French forces penetrated the strategic Hindenburg Line, believing victory was within reach. However, the Germans defended valiantly and later launched a massive counter-attack. Up to 180 tanks were destroyed or broke down in the ensuing chaos, and thousands on both sides perished. The Cambrai Tank 1917 museum at Flesquières relates the incredible story.

Despite its violent history, Cambrai today is a lively city, and centre of a region called Cambrésis. Other great attractions include subterranean tours of Cambrai’s chalk galleries, and Romanesque and Gothic vaulted rooms ; and the Musée Henri Matisse in Le Cateau-Cambrésis, which is due to reopen before the end of 2024.

And don’t miss the Maison Wilfred Owen in Ors. The famous English World War I poet was killed in action near here just a week before the end of the war and is buried in the local cemetery beside many of his brothers in arms. Dedicated to his memory, the house was where he wrote his last letter to his mother. The following morning he and his comrades came under German fire while trying to cross the nearby canal. His mother received her son’s letter and a telegram informing her of his death on November 11, the day the armistice was signed. Over a century on, and the house has been beautifully transformed by a British artist and a French architect into a startling white memorial. Open to visitors from mid-April to mid-November, it has a long ramp leading into the interior where you can read Owen’s poems and listen to recordings, some delivered by the British actor Kenneth Branagh. It’s a poignant reminder of the great price paid by the soldiers who fought for France.

From France Today Magazine

Wilfred Owen’s grave in Cambrésis

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