Brittany’s Spectacular Parish Closes
Brittany’s remarkable parish closes point not simply to the region’s monied past from woven fabric, but also inter-village one-upmanship.
Between the Bay of Morlaix and Brest harbour in Brittany sit a series of ornate, grandiose enclosed churchyards, offering spectacular architectural interest to both the casual touring Francophile and those with a deeper interest in Breton history. Enclos Paroissiaur, or parish closes, which are largely located in the northern half of Finistère, are vestiges of the area’s relative historical wealth, religious fervour, artisanal prowess and general desire to impress. Built during the 16th and 17th centuries, they are superbly preserved gems of Breton heritage encompassing Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque elements. As the Finistère tourist board puts it: “From the 16th to the 17th century, Finistère experienced an unprecedented artistic and cultural boom, driven by a period of exceptional prosperity. Flax and hemp were grown, spun and woven, and exported all over Europe. This commercial boom boosted the ports and enriched the towns. The parish enclosures are the fruit of this golden age.” War and maritime competition were key driving factors behind the boom in ship rigging, not to mention expansion in the tanning industry. There was a competitive element to the construction-and enlargement of these closes, with each parish aiming to out-do its neighbour with the most beautiful ensemble.
Author Florian Le Roy wrote of local tit-for-tat rivalry: “For a quarter of a century, they fought over fountains, calvaries, pulpits and processional crosses… Pleyben bought a monumental porch and finished with a calvary. Guimiliau wanted a baptistery, an organ case and a pulpit like no other! That’s it! Saint- Thégonnec countered with a pulpit worthy of St Peter’s in Rome and a tombstone by Morlaix sculptor Lespaignol.” The defining basic features of a parish close are: a central church, a triumphal/monumental gate, a calvary (sculpted cross and representation of the Crucifixion), an ossuary (bone house) and a graveyard-all enclosed by a wall that serves both as a physical boundary and a symbolic divide between the profane and sacred spaces. The great joy for visitors beyond the impressive initial scale and spectacle as you reach each village centre comes with the exploration of the incredible sculpted details, often by unnamed local craftsmen, and imagining the long- since-disappeared gilding and polychrome decorations that once wowed churchgoers.
For those with limited time to explore sacred enclosures, we have selected three of the finest within a relatively compact area to add to your next Breton wish list. France Today Members can enjoy an exclusive photo gallery featuring Enclos Paroissiaux.
Find out more: Insider View: Brittany’s Parish Closes
1. SAINT-THÉGONNEC
A must-visit near Morlaix, the majestic Enclos Paroissial at Saint-Thégonnec is deemed by many to be the richest in architectural terms it is a listed historic monument. The oldest part of the church, the Gothic bell tower, dates back to 1563, and from 1590 to 1740, six generations of parishioners modified and upgraded the buildings to create the scene we enjoy today. The fancy Renaissance-style triumphal arch is attributed to stonemasons from the nearby Château de Kerjean’s workshop, with lovely details to spot including the sculpted depiction of Saint Thégonnec – who is said to have come from Wales in the 6th century to evangelise this part of Brittany-riding a donkey.
2. LAMPAUL-GUIMILIAU
This simple and sober enclosure, dating from the 16th century, is one of the oldest in Brittany and is the result of the huge local tanning industry- no fewer than 146 local tanneries were listed here in 1780. Located in the heart of the village, it features a triumphal gate, an ossuary, a calvary and a beautiful Gothic-style church, whose original steeple spire was struck by lightning in 1809 and replaced by a lead cap. In contrast to its more discreet exterior, the Lampaul-Guimiliau church is prestigious for its carved timber rood beam with a polychrome frieze and six stunning altarpieces.
3. GUIMILAU
In the parish named after Saint Milian who was beheaded in 792 on his brother’s orders! the enclos at Guimiliau was completed in 1588 and is notable for its huge calvary, whose statues depict 37 scenes from the life and death of Christ from the Annunciation to the Resurrection, via some 200 figures. Detail of note: at the second ossuary, spot a raised exterior pulpit from where the priest would address parishioners – this was added in a corner of the close in 1648.Guimiliau is partially accessible to people with reduced mobility.
FURTHER INFORMATION
- Our small selection of parish closes is merely the tip of the iceberg- there are dozens more to discover. For a comprehensive history of parish closes, visit The Parish Close Interpretation Centre (CIAP) at 53 Rue du Calvaire, Guimiliau; www.ciap- enclos.fr/en
- Visiting several of these landmark ecclesiastical wonders can form the backbone of a holiday in Brittany. For those who enjoy cycling, the Circuit des Enclos à vélo (parish closes by bike) takes you on a tour of Saint-Thégonnec, Guimiliau and Lampaul- Guimiliau. Tour produced by Maison du Tourisme Baie de Morlaix Monts d’Arrée, www.baiedemorlaix.bzh/en
From France Today Magazine
Lead photo credit : St-Thégonnec
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